Coast-to-Coast Miracle Ride

Welcome Home

2010-11-29T15:23:00.003-06:00

Join Children's Miracle Network as we welcome Norb and Ann home!

You are invited to an Open House Reception to celebrate the Bagleys' cross-country bicycle trip.

Thursday, Dec. 9, 2010
3:00–4:30 p.m. (special presentation at 3:30 p.m.)
Cox South, 7th Floor, Pediatrics Waiting Room
3801 S. National Ave., Springfield, MO 65807

Come hear stories from the road and view pictures. For more information, call 417/269-6853.

LIFE IS LIKE RIDING A BICYCLE

2010-11-28T20:09:00.007-06:00

Official Photographer, Michelle Westhoff

Saturday 11/27/10 As we sat on the terrace outside our hotel room in San Diego enjoying our view of Mission Bay, we had difficulty believing our ride was about to end. We still had the habitual urge to look at our maps and to check the air in our bike tires. We had one very short ride left that would take us to the pier in Ocean Beach, the official end-point of the southern tier. As we rode toward our final destination, sea gulls, pelicans, and cormorants flew overhead. What a transitional sight when only 3 days ago we were riding through desert and mountains. We cycled past Dog Beach, to the eclectic community of Ocean Beach, where the chosen mode of transportation appeared to be skateboards. We saw surfers in wetsuits carrying their boards to the water. Some of the grassy areas had camps of people who appeared to be homeless or had just chosen to live outdoors near the ocean. Michelle Westhoff met us to take some photos of our finish. What a welcome sight to see her. Michelle's sister, Melissa, is married to our nephew Nick. Thank you Michelle! So, after 2 months and 8 days, with 10 flats and 2800 miles, we documented with camera that our ride had ended. For those of you who have supported us with thoughts, words, and prayers, we thank you and wish you love and adventure. Team Bagley

THANKS FOR THE MEMORIES

2010-11-28T09:57:00.007-06:00

Mission Trails Regional Park Visitor's Center

Friday 11/26 10 Our plan today was to navigate the multitude of twists and turns through a string of bedroom communities that would lead us into San Diego. It was a day of urban riding with some nice descents and a few surprising climbs. As we rode, the green & brown mountains of the area were never out of sight. Summer flowers that have ceased blooming in Missouri's onset of winter are still vebrant here - geraniums, roses, and shasta daises gave no indication that the season has changed. Only the cool air and red/yellow leaves of maple and cottonwood trees, hinted that fall had arrived. We rode a short stretch through Mission Trails Regional Park on the Father Junipere Serra Trail that parallels the San Diego River, which over time, has carved a deep gorge. We saw lots of runners, bikers, and hikers as evidence that this beautiful park is a popular place. We stopped briefly at the Visitor's Center before exiting the trail and merging again with traffic. As we rode past the San Diego Chargers Stadium, the traffic intensified. Holiday shoppers clogged the bike lanes in Fashion Valley on Black Friday forcing us to ride on the sidewalk. A traffic cop apologized for the inconvenience as she was slapping tickets on the vehicles which she stated would all be towed away. When we stopped at Mission Bay Park to look out over the blue waters, we experienced a wave of emotions. There was no celebratory whooping or dancing in circles. We just hugged each other tightly in a warm congratulatory embrace, relieved that we had reached our desitnation and thankful our journey ended safely. We thought of Roger Grooters whose life ended tragically on his ride three days after we met him. We hoped that other riders we encountered who are still on the road were in a safe place today. Together we have created some incredible memories on this trip. Like paintings in our minds, we will remember the inviting front porches of the deep South, shaded by enormous live oaks draped with Spanish Moss....the beautiful hill country and lonely western deserts of Texas....the rugged desert mountains of New Mexico and Arizona that captivated us with their jagged peaks and changing colors as the sun moved across the sky....and finally, the green valleys of California, where summer seems eternal, and its' mountains that made us earn the final leg to the Pacific with challenging winds and climbs. More memorable than the scenery are the many remarkable people we met along the way. They gave us the privilege to learn about them and their corner of this world. Their generosity was humbling. For several, it extended to making a donation to CMN. We are honored that our ride is somewhat of a catalyst to raise funds that will assist children in obtaining healthcare. We feel a connection with the walkers in Springfield, those that motivated us with comments on the blogspot/e-mails, and those who took on the last 100 mile challenge. For those who silently followed our ride on the blogspot, we appreciate you for taking an interest. Tomorrow the Coast-to-Coast Miracle Ride will officially end when we dip our front tires in the Pacific.

TURKEY DAY WORKOUT

2010-11-27T00:45:00.008-06:00

Fence on U.S./Mexico Border
Border Fence

Thanksgiving Day 11/25/10 It was a cold morning when we left Jacumba. Our Thanksgiving blessing was no wind. We decided to climb the remaining 6 peaks in one day rather than the original plan of 2 days. We were motivated by the cold and not wanting to risk encountering another wind storm in the mountains. Initially we rode parallel to the big steel fence that defines the U.S./Mexico border. At times we were less than 20 yards from this enormous structure. We saw some homes on each side of the wall that had their backyards separated by this monstrosity, certainly eliminating any neighborly backyard barbecues or friendly over-the-fence conversations. Without wind attempting to blow us off the mountain, we were able to take in some scenery between climbs. The hillsides and peaks were piles of huge brown boulders precariously piled on top of each other with bits of desert vegetation that seemed to hold everything together. We had great vistas of continuous mountain peaks that stretched to the horizon, We could look down into deep green valleys where small settlements appeared to be miniature houses clumped together. As we continued on Old Hwy 80, we spotted a small cafe, partially hidden in a grove of trees, just east of Buckman Springs. By this time, the cold had seeped through our clothing making this little establishment an oasis of warmth. After several cups of coffee and the best pancakes either of us could ever remember eating, we headed back into the cold. We had one major climb remaining before dropping 2000 ft to warmer weather in Alpine. As we descended, we felt as though we were exiting a meat locker. A raven gliding low in front of Norb, guided us part of the way down the mountain where the community of Alpine welcomed us with beautiful orange pyracantha bushes and a hillside of red geraniums. As the sun was setting, we walked to the Alpine Inn for a Thanksgiving buffet where we ate as if it might be our last meal on earth.

THE BIG ROCK 'WINDY' MOUNTAIN

2010-11-26T23:13:00.015-06:00

The Unendearing Motel Patio
Bridge over Devil's Canyon
Old Highway Cafe

11/24/10 Wednesday We could hear the wind outside our room the moment we opened our eyes. It sounded strong enough to snap a kite string. Since our motel hadn't endeared itself to us, we pumped up our tires, loaded the bikes, and walked through the gravel RV lot to the Old Highway Cafe for breakfast. The owner, Ed, told us the wind would mellow out in about 3 hours. Later we learned Ed isn't always right about everything. It took us one hour to bike the first 4 miles. The wind app on the iphone registered 32 mph in a nanosecond. We left Hwy 98 to merge onto Interstate 8 where we encountered 2 high bridges with no shoulders that spanned deep canyons. The wind was so strong that we had to walk our bikes across by hugging the railing. Since leaving Brawley yesterday, which lies slightly below sea level, we found ourselves today in the midst of climbing to an elevation of 3200 ft., before dropping 200 ft to the town of Jacumba (pop 400) where we had booked a room at the Jacumba Hot Springs Spa Lodge. (The word "spa" immediately grabbed Ann's attention) We rode past signs suggesting that cars turn off their air conditioners and several locations providing radiator water. Both were good indicators of the steepness of the mountain. As we gained altitude, the wind gained strength. At 2000 ft, we began feeling some spritzes of cold rain and winds so powerful that we could not stay upright on our bikes, let alone maintain any forward momentum. So we put our heads down and pushed the loaded bicycles until reaching a temporary lull behind a hillside when we would then ride some more. At 3000 ft, the wind became fierce, forcing us to walk almost as much as we were riding. We managed a total of 13 miles in 4 hours before exiting I-8. We saw a huge lot advertising truck tires and a towing service. We pulled in and met Charlie. He came out of his trailer to greet us by shouting over the wind, "You people must be crazy". He offered to drive us the remaining 6 miles to Jacumba as soon as a customer arrived to pick up some tires. As we sat in his shop trying to warm up and get acquainted, a radio weather report, informed us we had been battling winds that reached 55 mph. Thank you Charlie for that short ride! After a hot shower, we hooked up once again with Sue & Ken Yerex. We had last seen this Canadian couple in Wickenburg Az. It was great to see them again and we traded wind horror stories that we have all encountered since entering California. The Jacumba Lodge is an old rambling complex that has a mineral spring which people have utilized for medicinal purposes since the 1920's - much earlier for Native Americans. The Lodge is only 1/4 mile from the gigantic steel fence that separates the U.S. from Mexico. We saw Border Patrol vehicles and helicopters patrolling nearby. We felt comfortable at this old lodge located in this tiny mountain town and were elated to be out of the cold wind. Until today, the strongest headwind we had encountered was in North Dakota when we biked the Northern Tier. Today, the wind that roared down the Jacumba Mountains, headed for the Imperial Valley, certainly trumped our N.D. experience.

ROUGH ROADS & TACOS

2010-11-24T22:06:00.010-06:00

Norb cleans mud off his shoes after sacrficing himself for a cabbage picture

Ocotillo RV Park

Tuesday 11/23/10 We had a late start out of Brawley after a short shopping trip to WalMart. Ann researched the temps in some of the mountain towns and daytime highs were predicted at 49 degrees. The nights would be in the 20's and we each needed a warmer top under our jackets. Hwy 78 connected us to Hwy 86 until El Centro where we took S80 to Ocotillo. Brawley, Imperial, and El Centro all sort of run together connected by shopping centers. Behind these commercial webs are miles of fields that grow an assortment of crops that we tend to take for granted whenever we enter a grocery store. Most of the fields were plowed under but we did see green alfalfa and a cabbage patch that seemed to grow clear to the horizon. At Seely we stopped at La Pasadita, a small restaurant with beautiful bougainvillea growing outside. We ate the best fish and chicken tacos ever. The owner, Nellie, was a lot of fun but would not share her recipe, that she said was often requested. We thought about filling our bike bags with enough of Nellie's tacos to last for the rest of the trip. The pavement of S80 was rocky and riddled with large bumps and cracks. Just east of Plaster City, we had a short smooth section that ran to a turnoff for a state prison. The town is little more than a few old mobile homes and some makeshift shacks. We thought that if anyone paroled from the prison and walked through Plaster, they might turn around and beg the warden to take them back. A few miles beyond, a huge plant aroused our curiosity because it was just out there in the middle of nowhere. We walked to the surrounding fence and spoke with a plant worker who said they manufactured sheetrock from gypsum mined 25 miles away in the desert. Until the investment bankers crippled the housing market with their mortgage schemes, the plant employed 400. Today only 200 work here. We had 8 miles remaining to Ocotillo when the Wicked Witch of the West flipped a switch and surprised us with a powerful headwind. Ann used the wind app on her iphone that recorded the force as a steady 27mph with gusts up to 42mph. It took us one hour and forty minutes to bike those remaining 8 miles. We arrived at the Ocotillo RV/Mobile Home Park at 3:30 and were happy to be off the road. Our motel room was somewhat below humble but it was warm and sheltered us from the howling wind.

IT'S A LONG WAY TO..............................BRAWLEY

2010-11-24T19:32:00.013-06:00

Does this look like a big goldmine to you? Us either!

Monday 11/22/10 A full white moon was disolving in the sky as we walked to the motel lobby in Blythe for a continental breakfast. Today we opted for biscuits & gravy rather than Raisin Bran. We had a long ride ahead of us to Brawley, Ca, with only 2 watering holes on our route, that is Hwy 78. We cycled past fields of cotton and alfalfa that received water provided by irrigation canals fed from the Colorado River. The brown Palo Verde Mountains to the west were an artistic accent to the white cotton and green alfalfa. At several canals we saw snowy egrets which we took as a good sign that we were closing in on the Pacific Ocean. After 25 miles, we stopped briefly in Palo Verde (pop 236) to top off our water bottles. We then encountered a series of climbsw for the next 20 miles. Although the climbs were short, a number of them were steep enough to conceal oncoming traffic until a vehicle suddenly popped over a hill surprising us like a Jack-in-the-box. The traffic tended to come in waves of 6-8 vehicles, mostly big trucks and RV's. Ann questioned if anyone was even making regular size vehicles anymore. We rode past the Chocolate Mountains near the Naval Reservation Aerial Gunnery Range before descending to the small settlement of Glamis: home of a very large gold mine and the North Algodones Dunes wilderness area. After a quick roadside snack, we had a long gradual climb out of Glamis. We rode near tall and wind sculpted sand dunes that stretched for 7 miles on our route. Although the map identifies the dunes as a "wilderness area", it obviously is not. Dune buggies, ATV's, and dirt bikes, that looked like toy cars next to the giant dunes, were
everywhere. We were told that over the coming weekend over 100,000 people would be here to recreate. A few miles east of Brawley, we began cycling through the Imperial Valley, an area famous for its agricultural bounty. We arrived at our motel with some daylight left, and our camelbacks and water bottles drained. It was a good day and our longest ride on the trip-87 miles.

CALIFORNIA HERE WE COME

2010-11-21T16:09:00.002-06:00

Sunday 11/21/10 Hey Sports Fans, for those of you who have read our blog, you may or may not have noticed that we attempt to recount what has transpired rather than what is anticipated. Ann suggested this early on. Although we usually have somewhat of a plan, it is never set in stone and we try to stay flexible. (literally & figuratively) However, we are declaring for a San Diego arrival on Saturday 11/27/10. We are excited that CMN has thrown down the gauntlet for a 100 mile challenge that coincides with our last 100 miles. We want to take a short commercial break to say: If you haven't made a donation to CMN but have been meaning to do so, there is no time like the present! Back to todays ride.....An Ozarkian poet might describe this morning as "A stiff wind be blowin' from the direction we be goin'." So, we put a tiger in our tank with a plastic bowl of Frosted Flakes at the Super 8 continental breakfast. While we were loading our bikes and pumping tires, we met David Bean who is an over-the-road trucker from North Carolina. He had a lot of curiosity about our bikes and our trip. During our conversation, we were impressed with all the places his work took him including Vancouver and Springfield, Mo. He wished us safe travels as we headed west on Dome Rock Road , a frontage road of I-10. At times the interstate seemed to be a figment of our imagination as we rode past RV's randomly scattered about the desert. Signs instructed a maximum stay of 14 days. No hook-ups or bath houses here. As we popped over a hill, I-10 again became a reality. Have we mentioned the wind? We wanted to get an early start as winds were predicted to gust to 40mph in the afternoon, making this another short day. That short day involved arriving in our 8th and final state. Ann felt reasonably relaxed on the wide smooth shoulder of I-10 and found herself glancing along the roadside hoping to spy a nice piece of azurite or other colored gemstone. Norb, meanwhile, was contemplating names other than Mariah for the wind. Once we arrived in Ehrenburg, we exited the interstate. A short jaunt led us to a pedestrian walkway over the north side of the Colorado River Bridge--the state line. The river is lovely variations of teal and dark aquamarine. (Ann loves trying to come up with appropriate color labels, it is an Oliver thing) Holding the camera steady was a difficult task as the wind buffeted us about on the bridge. We exited the bridge onto the next in our series of frontage roads. It took us past several vintage motels. Blythe was our stopping point for this windy day.

ROCKS OF AGES

2010-11-20T19:52:00.010-06:00

Saturday 11/20/10 When we walked out the door of the Black Rock RV Park/Motel in Brenda AZ, we saw a wind sock across the highway straining to be set free. It was pointing due east. Not good news for 2 people who are headed west on bicycles. Disc-shaped clouds resembling UFO's hung low. As the mountain peaks & clouds mingled, it created a scene of castles in the sky. When we walked to the office for coffee, we could feel the force of the wind. Fortunately, we had logged some extra miles yesterday so we had the luxury of making today a shorter ride. As we rode through the desert, we were again blessed with beautiful scenery. Black rocks were scattered on the desert floor that were once spewed from volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. Four miles west of Brenda, our route joined I-10. That was our first ever experience of biking on an interstate highway & it was a noisy 12 miles. Amazingly, a covey of quail with their wonderful topknots caught our eye running alongside the interstate. The perspective of the green informational signs we seem to take for granted from car windows, towered over us like huge structures. We arrived in Quartzsite (pop 3,354), located in the Mojave Desert with the nearby Kofa, New Water, and Plomosa Mountains providing topographic relief. This area is a rock hounds' paradise with agates, gold, limonite, and quartz being just a few of the treasures to be found. The town doesn't really resemble a stereotypic town. As we rode through Main Street, we passed continuous RV Parks, RV sales lots, and large tents housing either flea markets or swap meets. The Visitor's Guide listed 70 Mobile Home/RV Parks in the vicinity that are operational between October and March when the average daytime temps are in the 70's. We now know where all those RV's we see on the road go during the winter - Quartzsite! We rode our bikes to the Hi Jolly Monument & Cemetary that pays tribute to Hadji Ali who was born in Syria. He came to the U.S. during the mid 1800's as a camel trainer with a boat load of camels purchased by the U.S. Army. The theory being that camels could out perform horses in the American Southwest. (See previous blog re: Camp Verde, Tx) Hadji, along with others, were recruited to educate the military on how to handle the beasts. Reportedly, the experiment failed and all the trainers went home with the exception of Hadji. He remained and became a prospector and beloved citizen of Quartzsite. Locals called him "Hi Jolly" because it was apparently too difficult for them to pronounce "Hadji Ali." From our motel window, we can see a mountain within walking distance. We took a stroll and saw retirees on ATV's patrolling the trails like ravens looking for a shiny object to pluck. Pieces of quartz laid everywhere.

I HAD A DREAM, A WONDERFUL DREAM

2010-11-19T20:08:00.010-06:00

Friday 11/19/10 Today was a cyclist's dream. As we left Wickenburg, the sun was rising to our left casting our elongated shadows, which sliced through the desert grass and creosote bushes growing alongside the road. The air felt cool with a warm underlay. Traffic was light and we had a smooth, wide shoulder. Not having to be concerned about traffic and being carpeted in solitude, let our minds wander to think about family and friends. Although we are not homesick in the classical sense, we are ready to resume the lives we left behind 2 months ago. At mile 15, a hawk perched high on a pole screeched us back to now - being in the desert - moving silently on the asphalt road with mountains all around. By midday, the mountains to the north were catching direct rays of the sun giving them the bleached tan colors of the desert, while the range south of us appeared to be sketched & colored with dark purple ink. Saguaro and barrel cactus fanned out on the desert floor where dust devils danced. Growing low beside the road were plants that resembled those on a coral reef. It felt like we were riding through a beautifully painted panoramic landscape of desert & mountains, concerned that at any moment we might break through the canvas bringing our ride to an end. We wanted it to go until forever. After 76 miles, we stopped in Brenda AZ at The Black Rock RV Park that has a small 4-unit motel. This is an RV mecca! We saw octogenarians wearing Tilley hats and hiking boots, scooting around in Jeeps, proving that a sense of adventure can remain with us all for a long time.
En route we stopped at the Ingredients (Way Cool) Cafe in Wenden (pop 556) where we once again met up with Gavin and Ed who are also biking to San Diego. We last saw them in Louisiana and it was great catching up, knowing they were okay, and still moving on. We said goodbye and shared a BLT at the cafe. They also served us a side order of broccoli salad, the first vegetable in quite some time that wasn't fried. We were so overcome with joy, we almost wept.

I SEE BY YOUR OUTFIT THAT YOU ARE A COWBOY

2010-11-18T23:34:00.006-06:00

Thursday 11/18/10 Today was a rest day after 8 straight days of biking. We explored Wickenburg and treated ourselves to overdue haircuts. This town (pop. 5082) rests on the northern edge of the Sonoran Desert at an elevation of about 2200 ft. and has some great mountain views. Reportedly the town was named for Henry Wickenburg, a German immigrant, who apparently threw a rock at his recalcitrant burro in 1863. Since the rock was heavy with gold, it fell short of its mark, and Henry started digging. Mark Twain once said, "Wherever there was a rumor and a hole in the ground, someone built a town around it." The town was named Wickenburg. The Vulture Mine discovered by the town's namesake eventually yielded 30 million in gold. Henry subsequently used some of his wealth to pay for an irrigation project in the Salt River Valley that ultimately led to the founding of Phoenix. Today Wickenburg is still a popular haunt for amateur gold prospectors who pan for gold along the banks of the Hassayampa River. We did a self-guided walking tour that has 31 restored historical buildings. Some of the locations have life-like bronze sculptures depicting the history & people during the 1800's. One of the stops on the tour is a 200 year old mesquite tree that was used as a jail by chaining law breakers to its trunk. The jails had been adobe structures; however, the prisoners could dig their way out, so the tree became a more effective way to keep them captive. The town also has a first-class museum displaying early settlement & contemporary life with great art work and artifacts. Norb usually has the attention span of a gnat inside a museum but this one held him captivated for a portion of the afternoon. Although Wickenburg has some classy shops and restaurants targeting tourists, it is still very much a cowboy town. The saddelry shops had riding gear for working cattle as well as the showy stuff used to deck a horse for a parade. Today was a community ride and some of the locals took vacation to saddle up. Wickenburg is proud of its prospecting and ranching history in addition to being the "Dude Ranch Capital of theWorld." We ate homemade ice cream at The Chaparrel while listening to Hank Williams sing, "Hey, hey, good-lookin' Whatcha got cookin'? How about cookin' somethin' up with me."

CACTI COUNTRY

2010-11-18T22:09:00.007-06:00

Wednesday 11/17/10 We left this morning to Elvis singing Jailhouse Rock over the loud speakers at a local amusement park. A great way to start the day! By combining stretches on the Arizona canal path, a variety of residential streets, and some main roads, we finally exited the asphalt-covered valley that joins Phoenix with its sister cities. The residential streets had designated bike lanes and we passed tidy lawns, some decorated with orange trees. Many of the streets had speed bumps that yellow signs identified as "speed cushions". Norb thought whoever dreamed up that term must have been a mellow, laid-back type. Someone who did whatever his rice crispies asked him to do. We pedaled past the Del Webb developments of Sun City, Sun City West, and Sun City Grand, all nice developments creating a haven from the cold northern winters for people our age. Thunderbird Boulevard connected us to Hwy 60 where we encountered 8 miles of road construction; however, we were lucky to be able to ride inside the cones which eased our way. Several miles east of Wickenburg, we came upon a totally white bicycle that was anchored in the ground in front of a brown hillside. It was like an apparition in the desert landscape and it aroused our curiosity. Stenciled on the top tube was "Charles Peterson: 10-12-26 to 9-18-07. A lady driving by saw us and stopped. She explained it was a memorial "ghost bike" for the man who was struck and killed at this site while riding his bicycle. Not only was he an avid cyclist, but he also faithfully served as a volunteer at the Hassayampa River Preserve nearby. We entered Wickenburg on Hwy 60 that goes through the central part of this quaint western town where, once upon a time, cattle drives rather than cars, passed through. On the way to our motel, we met fellow bicyclists Ken and Sue Yerex who were also on route from Florida to San Diego. These Canadians are extremely experienced cycling tourists who have logged 30,000+ miles on their bikes over the years. They joined us for dinner that evening and we had a great time sharing our experiences on the road. They too went through the Queen Creek Tunnel on Sunday and described that days ride as being the most dangerous they had ever encountered in all their years of riding. We are hopeful that our paths will cross again before this adventure is complete. Tomorrow will be a rest day in Wickenburg.

AS THE SUN COMES UP IN THE CITY

2010-11-18T10:45:00.009-06:00

Tuesday 11/16/10 It was a balmy 50 degrees as we rode out of Mesa with a high of 75 predicted. Great cycling weather! Smooth, flat pavement with designated bike lanes! The going was slow navigating the numerous construction sites and just finding our way through the maze. We took a short detour to visit Pam Eisenburg who is the sister of a friend of Ann's since childhood. Pam and husband Craig have a beautiful home with a view of Camelback Mountain and an African Leopard Tortoise refuge in their backyard. Although Pam kindly offered to have us stay the night, we felt the need to keep moving down the road toward our goal. We combined riding on city streets with several miles of riding on the Arizona canal bike paths. There, we saw a grove of giant eucalyptus trees planted in 1920 as wind breaks for a citrus grove. Each morning we carefully plot our course through all the townships that seem to connect with Phoenix. Ann is like a cliff swallow zipping through narrow canyon walls as she navigates her way through streets and turns. East of Phoenix we catch glimpses of shadowy mountains in the distance that our map suggests are the Superstition Mountains. An enduring legend associated with these rugged mountains is "The Lost Dutchman Mine". The legend is about Jacob Walz, who was actually German rather than Dutch. He came out of these mountains one day in the 1870's with mule-loads of gold ore. There were many attempts to track Walz back to the source of his wealth, but all failed. After spending some time patronizing Phoenix saloons, Walz would disappear into the Superstitions only to reappear months later with another load of ore. He left a deathbed riddle in 1891 that continues to frustrate treasure seekers. Walz said, "There's a great stone face looking up at my mine. If you pass three red hills, you've gone too far. The rays of the setting sun shine on my gold. Climb above my mine and you can see Weaver's Needle." As we rode toward a setting sun, there were, no doubt, some people in those mountains looking for that lost mine.

The Final 100 Mile Challenge

2010-11-18T10:44:00.005-06:00

As Norb and Ann prepare to ride the final 100 miles of their Coast-to-Coast Miracle Ride, you can support them and pledge to ride 100 miles in one week!

You will be notified when they are on their final stretch. The cost is $25 to participate, and all riders will receive a commemorative T-shirt. Contact Crystal Conway at 417-269-1832 or crystal.conway@coxhealth.com to sign up.

Norb and Ann will need all the support they can get. Check out the elevation profile of the last 100 miles of their journey:

What a challenge!

BRIGHT LIGHTS BIG CITY

2010-11-16T22:04:00.006-06:00

Monday 11/15/10 After breakfast at the 3C's Coffee Shop, we left Superior Az in the chilly mountain air on Hwy 60. Although we expected the climb over Gonzales Pass to be difficult, we were ecstatic that we did not even have to shift into our granny gears. The mountain scenery is breathtaking. Rock chimneys - boulders - and peaks surrounded us. We descended slowly because of loose gravel on the shoulders. Looking down on the valley floor, the sun glinted off moving vehicles like daytime starlight. Our ride flattened out as we approached Apache Junction. Although Hwy 60 is divided, the traffic seemed determined to pass us two abreast rather than one of the vehicles disengaging cruise control for a few seconds. Our goal today was to get as much urban cycling done as possible. From Apache Junction to the west side of Phoenix is approximately 70 miles through a megatropolis that incorporates Mesa, Tempee, Scottsdale, Phoenix, Glendale, and Peoria. There are a lot of street changes and intersections. As we entered this urban sprawl, we were surprised about the bike friendliness of the area. Designated bike lanes were everywhere and the traffic was very considerate of our space. It was an interesting transition from the dusty mining towns, wild desert, and cold mountains to clean streets, tidy homes, and bougainvillea blooming all about. The air was warm, the palm trees tall, and people in clean clothes were walking their bichons on- leash. The vegetation we saw growing wild in the desert was now tamed as lawn ornaments. This urban scenery was so gentile it seemed surreal to us as we rode in covered with grit of the desert. We stopped for the night in Mesa after a 53 mile day. Obviously, we were so awed by our groomed surroundings, we failed to take any city-fied photos. Mesa seems to be a most pleasant town and provided us our first Thai food of the trip.

'CAUSE WE'RE ROLLIN' IN HEAVY TRAFFIC

2010-11-15T19:49:00.002-06:00

Sunday 11/14/10 Elton John sang it. I don't think we've ever heard it. But we have lived it! When we left our motel 8 miles east of Globe, the temp was 40 but felt almost balmy. We speculated that our bodies might be acclimating to the cool desert mornings. The route elevation profile on our map promised a lot of climbing through the Pinal Mountains today. Our 8 mile ascent to Globe on Hwy 70 was gradual. At Globe, we took Hwy 60 and our climbs became steeper and longer. Unfortunately, the traffic was horrific, and most of the shoulders were useless for cyclists due to rumble strips and loose gravel. Cars, trucks, and packs of weekend Harleys sped past us entirely too close to feel at all comfortable, all day long. As we rode through the small towns of Claypool and Miami, there was evidence of copper and gold mining with large deep gaping holes in the hillsides. Smoke stacks and conveyor belts were nearby where whatever was gouged from the earth was processed. It is not a pretty sight, but has to be balanced with the jobs mining creates in this area and the material it provides for our comfort and pleasure. It was encouraging to see several reclamation projects underway. We crossed 2 very high bridges that could give even an eagle a slight feeling of vertigo. The first was over a deep gorge carved by Pinto Creek. The second one remains anonymous because we didn't dare look up as the traffic kept us pinned near the side of the bridge. After climbing for what seemed to be a very long time, we encountered a 3 mile, 7 % drop toward the Queen Creek Tunnel. A sign at the entrance informed us the interior lights were out. With our tail lights blinking, we entered the dark and kept a straight line as vehicles that were still enjoying the 7 % drop, blasted past us. It was a scary and disorienting ride through that hole in the mountain. We arrived, with nerves rather jangled, in Superior Az (pop 3200) and checked into the 1940' s style Copper Mountain Motel. Superior has a "Northern Exposure" quality due to its small size, location in the mountains, and some interesting people who live there. The 2 guys who operated the motel did a great job renovating the place in keeping with its original style. It felt like you could expect Packards, Chevy Coupes, and Hudsons to pull into the parking lot at any moment. Next door is a coffee shop owned by a local who recently moved back to Superior after having lived in San Francisco a number of years. A percentage of the proceeds from the shop are being donated to the local schools art & theatre programs that had been eliminated from the school budget. The coffee shop employs several young people who have an idealistic drive to create a community garden and are dedicated to an organic, ecologically sound lifestyle. Certainly not what you would expect in a small mining town. We ate dinner at a nearby restaurant where local folks wandered in & out. They were known by name. The town of Superior seems to have a level of sophistication and sense of community that is not immediately evident, but emerges as you interact with the people who live here.

APACHE GOLD

2010-11-14T21:44:00.005-06:00

Saturday 11/13/10 We rode out of Thatcher Az. on Hwy 70 toward the town of Globe, so named because a large round silver nugget resembling a globe was discovered there during the 1870's when it was just a mining camp. For the first 30 miles, we enjoyed a flat section of highway as we passed cotton fields and distant mountain scenery. With no headwind, we cruised at speeds of 15-18 mph. Then the easy stuff ended as we began leaving the desert floor and entered the mountains. We climbed past chalk-white rock formations so ancient you would expect them to crumble into dust at any moment. Suguaro cactus began appearing like sentinels guarding hillsides. Although some of the climbs were challenging, the panoramic views of peaks and canyons they provided were awe inspiring. When Teddy Roosevelt visited this area he described the scenery as "the most sublimely beautiful panorama nature ever created". Our elevation gain ultimately provided a nice descent to the town of Peridot (pop 1200). Peridot seemed to be the prominent trading center on the San Carlos Apache Reservation. After a brief banana/bagel stop, we had a seven mile climb out of Peridot before descending to a big sign announcing the existance of the Apache Gold Casino/Motel. If you were in a car, most likely you would drive on to Globe, 8 miles beyond. Unless of course, you wanted to throw some $$$ at 250 slot machines. The sign Casino/Motel for 2 people on bicycles who had just pedaled 68 miles through desert and mountains was instantly translated to - cheap rooms, lots of food. So, we spent the night at the Apache Gold Casino/Motel. So named Apache Gold because of a legend that Coronado and his Conquistadors buried gold in the nearby mountains, that has been guarded by the Apache for hundreds of years. Much to Ann's delight, the Apache Gold has an outdoor heated pool, and with an hour of sunshine remaining, we headed poolside. There we met a nice Apache lady whose husband and son were competing in a rodeo in Peridot. Accompanying her was another son who was a champion bull rider. We continue meeting a lot of interesting people on our journey.

BIG WHEELS KEEP ON TURNIN'

2010-11-14T16:25:00.011-06:00

Can you see a resemblance?
The Simpson Hotel - missing owner Deborah who had a meeting this morning

Even on a cross-country bike trip, Norb is extremely conscientious about grooming!
The crowd headed to a car show in Truth or Consequences

Friday 11/12/10 Duncan to Thatcher Az. We had a great breakfast at the Simpson Hotel and enjoyed getting acquainted with the other guests. Nancy & Jane from Santa Fe were in Duncan visiting Jane's relatives, Dexter & Glenda Oliver. Since Ann's maiden name is Oliver, Jane thought Ann and Dexter might somehow be connected on the Oliver family tree. Dexter & Glenda joined us for coffee and it was evident that Dex has some Oliver qualities. He is tall, has a fair complexion, and reddish blonde hair. He is also aware of an ancestral connection to Missouri. We also met Byrd & Karen Moss from Tucson. They were visiting their daughter who teaches school in Duncan. At around mile 16, they stopped on their return to Tucson to top off our water bottles and gave us some excellent apples from her Dad's tree. Nancy & Jane fhad preceeded their roadside visit to offer us a ride to Safford on their way to visit a spa. It was tempting. What a privilege it was to meet this interesting group of people. During the first 12 miles out of Duncan, we encountered some respectable climbs. At the top of one of those climbs, several shiny vintage cars caught our attention and we stopped for a chat with a fun-loving group After that, we reached a plateau and enjoyed roller coaster hills as we gradually descended to a flat stretch through Safford and on to Thatcher. Once again we saw nearby desert mountains and taller peaks in the distance shrouded by a hazy veil. In the final part of the ride, we could see machines picking cotton and a cotton gin. After checking into our motel in Thatcher, Ann became euphoric when she learned there was a heated outdoor pool. Norb is convinced she was a dolphin in a previous life. Whenever we stay somewhere that has a pool, Ann plunges in no matter how cold the water. As we walked to dinner, the sun created streaks of orange through a hazy sky. Apparently microbes released during cotton harvest create these hazy conditions.

BY THE TIME I GET TO ARIZONA

2010-11-12T21:36:00.005-06:00

Thursday 11/11/10 We left Lordsburg NM at 9 am under a clear sky and 40 degree temp with a NW wind carrying a rather bracing chill. We rode west on Hwy 70 through a flat desert landscape that stretched to the base of distant mountains that seemed to surround us. The sky overhead was a deep blue that became a paler version near the horizon. Above the mountians in the west were clouds that reflected the colors of the peaks. There was so little traffic that the only constant sound was the wind. Four miles from the Arizona border, we turned right on SH92 that, after several miles, dropped sharply to the Gila River Valley. As we crossed the Gila today, it was difficult to comprehend that only 3 days ago we were hiking near the headwaters of this river. This fertile valley had fields of cotton, corn, and milo - crops that can be harvested mechanically. At one time vegetables were grown here that were harvested by migrant workers from Mexico. Due to the more stringent immigration policies, these laborers stopped coming. Unable to find red-blooded Americans willing to do this work, the farmers switched to crops that could be harvested by machine. We overnighted in Duncan Az that has a population of 800 and one hotel, the Historic Simpson established in 1914 and now being lovingly restored by Deborah Mendelsohn. Not only has Deborah taken on the Herclean task of restoration, but she also co-founded a farmer's market in Duncan and works to study the impact of ranching, farming, and recreation on the water qualtiy of the San Francisco River Basin. She impressed us as a person who with energy, creativity, and resourcefulness, makes her chosen corner of the planet a better place. The hotel is quiet, comfortable, and committed to sound ecological practices. Bed linen hangs on a line in the back yard beyond the reach of the resident billy goat.

BACK IN THE SADDLE AGAIN

2010-11-10T21:26:00.005-06:00

Mining Reclamation Project - Tyrone New Mexico

Wednesday 11-10-10. Last night the temperature in Silver City dropped to 22. By 7am this morning, it was 28 and had reached 36 when we left the motel wearing our winter finery. The forecast predicted a high of 56 and a headwind of 10mph. We headed south on Hwy 90 hoping for warmer weather after crossing the Continental Divide and dropping to the floor of the desert in Hidalgo County on our way to Lordsburg N.M. We had a series of descents and climbs after leaving Silver City with views of mountainsides, peaks, and ridges. We climbed over the Divide at 6,355' and experienced several more ups and downs before the highway dropped straight as an arrow to the desert below. Even with a headwind, we could coast for about 7 miles at 15mph. Because of the unobstructed view and the clear air, we could see the rooftops of Lordsburg glittering in the sun from 10 miles away. This town was founded in 1880, and today is the county seat with a population of 3,300. Due to its proximity to I-10, this community has several motels and a fairly large Border Patrol Station. During WWII, a Japanese internment camp of 1,500 people was located here. The spectacular sight of the day was a low flying jet traveling faster than its sound, streak across the sky in front of us with a backdrop of desert mountains. Wow!

SILVER CITY & GILA

2010-11-09T13:13:00.020-06:00

Dave & Son - Gila Hike and Bike
Glenn
Silver City Museum
City Mural
Pinos Altos - Former Mining Town on road to Cliff Dwellings
Keeping the forest floor clean of debris

First Glimpse

The T window is copied from Anasazi design

Sunday, Monday, Tuesday 11-7,8,9-2010. After arriving late in Silver City on Saturday and having had our butts kicked by Emory Pass, we decided to make Sunday a rest day. We rode into town to Gila Hike & Bike Shop for new tires on Norb's bike, and maintenance checks. We had an enjoyable visit with Dave and his son. We also spent time getting information from Glenn, who lives in Silver City, and is a hard-core bicycle tourist who is familiar with the general area. Glenn reaffirmed our decision to go off the ACA route and head south to Lordsburg. Whether we head west or south, we can't avoid climbs over the Continental Divide. By heading south, we can expect slightly warmer weather and some lodging. While our bikes were being serviced, we walked the downtown area and visited the local museum housed in a unique former residence of Italianate design. This town of 10,500 has many interesting brick and adobe buildings dating back to the 1800's when it was a thriving mining community. In the early 1800's, City Fathers passed a law that disallowed any structure to have walls framed with wood, fearing fires that had destroyed other mining towns. Even though a WalMart exists east of town, the downtown area is vibrant with restaurants, shops, and people milling about. It is an interesting mix of people - some tourists, hikers, bikers, cowboys, and aging refugees from Woodstock. On Monday we procured a rental car from a local used car dealer in order to drive north through the mountains to visit the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. As we left town, a sign announced the 45 mile drive would take 2 1/2 hours. We took Hwy 15 that is a narrow band of asphalt which hair-pin curves, drops, and climbs through some beautiful scenery in Gila National Forest. On our way we encountered a prescribed burn that the Forest Service was managing for about 3 miles. After arriving, we enjoyed the Visitor Center and then hiked up Cliff Dweller Creek that is fed by a spring at the head of a canyon. The spring ensures a constant flow of water that sustains this canyon oasis, and provided water for the Mogollon (muggy-own) people that settled here from approximately 1270 to 1300 AD. They built masonry structures in deep natural caves near the confluence of the 3 branches of the Gila River. Reportedly, these people wandered into this area during a stressful period of a 25 year drought. Evidence suggests that these people traded items with tribes as far away as Mexico, and the Anasazi to the north before vacating these caves and vanishing into, perhaps, the culture of other tribes. Later, Apache Indians camped here at different times during their 300 year attempt to rid their homelands of Spanish and American settlers. It was not until the late 1800's that Geronimo gave up this struggle for his people. Thankfully, Teddy Roosevelt declared these dwellings a national monument in 1907, so we now have the opportunity to learn about the remarkable people who long ago preceded our visit. As we sat in the quiet of these caves high above the creek, looking out at the canyon walls, we felt peaceful and connected to this special place.
On Tuesday, the 7am temperature was 39 degrees with a 20mph wind blowing out of the west that could be an annoying cross wind on our route south. We piled bags in the motel lobby and walked outside to be greeted by a cold drizzle. The wind and climb over the Continental Divide were doable. The rain was not what we wanted to deal with on our route that required a lot of climbing. So - we packed it back in to wait for clearer skies tomorrow.

GUARDIAN ANGELS

2010-11-07T21:08:00.008-06:00

That is Emory Pass behind us as we leave Kingston

Where we just came from

11-6-10 Saturday We left the Black Range Lodge in Kingston NM after futzing with a contrary valve stem on Norb's bike. It was chilly as we began our ride to the top of Emory Pass at 8,828 ft. That will be our highest point during this trip. From our starting point, we climbed 2,800 vertical feet over a distance of eight miles to reach the top of the pass. It was challenging. The difficulty was compounded by the surface of Hwy 152 that was recently oiled and packed with gravel. Our tires picked up loose pieces of the oiled gravel and deposited the gunk on the underside of our fenders which, at times, prevented our tires from rolling. This surface was a perfect storm for flat tires. We topped out at 12:30 and stopped briefly to enjoy the view. Both below and around us were Ponderosa pine, juniper, spruce and fir. Woven within these various shades of green were oaks, cottonwoods, and birch flashing their fall colors of orange and yellow. The descent was a series of steep drops followed by climbs as curvy 152 clung to the side of the mountain. During one of the steep drops, Norb had a rear tube blowout. Ann was 100 yards ahead and did not realize Norb had dropped out of the parade for about 2 miles. Fortunately a nice family (the Wagners who once lived in Jasper, Arkansas) happened by and asked Norb if he was with a lady walking his direction about a mile down the road. These wonderful people then picked Ann up and brought her up to the spot where Norb was changing his rear tire. After we completed the tire change, the Wagners took Ann back to her bike. Norb then traveled about 10 feet before his front tire blew. Ann had deduced that either Norb had encountered some difficulty or had gone feral. The Wagners then returned, explained the situation, and strapped Ann's bike to the top of their SUV, delivering her once again to where Norb was now changing tire #2. The Wagners were our first guardian angels of the day. It was slow going on the descents because of the oily gravel. The climbs following the drops, even slower. It gets dark early in the mountains and with not a lot of daylight left and 15 miles of climbs remaining to reach Silver City, we stuck out our thumbs and met our 2nd guardian angels who materialized in a shiny red pick-up truck. This wonderful Hispanic couple drove us the last 15 miles and refused to accept the money we offered. They instead told us to donate it to CMN, which we will gladly do. To date we have had 9 flats and logged approximately 2,100 miles. Sunday is a rest day in Silver City. Thanks for your comments on the blog. We love reading them!

NOT HARRY BELAFONTE'S "KINGSTON"

2010-11-07T09:17:00.013-06:00

Perhaps a project for future consideration by The Overestimaters

Fall colors on Percha Creek

11-5-10 Friday. We left our little tool shed of a cabin by Lake Caballo on a cool morning. We rode lonely Hwy 152 toward Kingston, NM, which rests at 6.200 ft in the Black Range Mountains. We encountered such little traffic that Team Bagley was able to ride side-by-side on a few of the flat sections. The operative word is "few" because most of the route entailed climbing today. We were both glad to have granny gears on our bikes and we used them often. It was, however, a beautiful ride. As we climbed through the mountains, we could see distant peaks and at times it felt like we were in a mountainous maze. We climbed one particular spine that gave us a birds eye view of deep narrow valleys below. One could fantasize being a soaring hawk if only our legs weren't burning. We rode beneath blue sky and watchful ravens occasionally broke the silence with their distinctive calls. We stopped in the small village of Hillsboro for lunch and also purchased a giant burrito "to go" so we would have something to eat while overnighting in Kingston at the Black Range Lodge. Kingston was once a silver mining boomtown. In the 1880's, Kingston had the largest population in the New Mexico territory reported to be about 7,500. This did not take into account women, children, and Chinese workers who, at the time, were not considered worthy to be counted. The town had 27 saloons, an opera house, 3 newspapers, and a number of hotels. In 1893 , when the bottom fell out of silver ore, Kingston and other mining towns rapidly lost their populations. Today Kingston has a population of 25 (including women and children). The Lodge dates back to about 1880 when it housed miners and cavalry. Today it is a rambling, eclectic, old western mountain lodge with massive log beams, stone walls, and creaky floors. There are several cats & dogs milling about. Outside is a large pen of chickens guarded by a noisy rooster, various small construction projects are scattered about the premises. After dropping our bags in our room, we spent a bit of time killing flies with a swatter that was conveniently provided. There is a resident ghost referred to as Sam. He was a one-armed bachelor who wandered into Kingston and became the lodge caretaker. He was a hard-drinking, chain-smoking kind of guy who after 20 years there, died in his room at the lodge. Reports of mysterious cigarette butts, breaking glass, billiard balls in the dead of night, and windows once locked found open, abound. There was a reported sighting by a guest of a one-armed man floating down the stairs. The owner of the Lodge is Catherine Wanek who purchased the property in 1984 and opened it as a B & B in 1988. She is a former Hollywood movie 2nd director and now a writer/photographer who authored "The New Straw Bale Home" and the "The Art of Natural Building". Located on the property are a number of structures and walls built with bales of hay and stucco. This is a fascinating place! A frequent guest, Gary, is a massage instructor/therapist who gave Ann a wonderful chair massage. A great way to end the day. We slept so soundly that we didn't hear any quirky sounds that Sam the ghost might have made during the night.

DRIFTING ALONG WITH THE TUMBLING TUMBLEWEEDS

2010-11-05T09:16:00.014-05:00

Lovely New Mexico litter. If only this could be the only litter on our roads!
Rio Grande
Norb gets a new doo

After being harvested, cotton bales are on the side of the road for pick-up

Thursday 11-4-10. We left Las Cruces at 8:30 wearing our cold weather duds to stay warm in the 44 degree morning air. Once again, we rode past pecan orchards, fields of cotton, red chiles, onions, and alfalfa. The fields have irrigation canals providing the crops with water from the Rio Grande River. We crossed the Rio Grande near Radium Springs and again later between the tiny dusty settlements of Derry and Arrey. There didn't seem to be much water flowing and we speculated that the irrigation and damming of this waterway might be the culprits causing such low water. All along our route, through the wide farming valley that the river created, we could see the ridge lines and peaks of brown & tan desert mountains. With the exception of a few short climbs, our route on both 185 & 187 was flat with smooth pavement and hardly any traffic. We rode for miles hearing only the soothing sound of our thin tires spinning over the pavement. Both the scenery and quietness were awesome. At Hatch, we stopped for lunch at Sparky's, a fun place that had some quirky statues of Colonel Sanders, Ronald McDonald, and a huge white chicken on top of a van, welcoming us to Hatch. Apparently, this gaudy display keeps the owner of the cafe at odds with the City Council. We picked the brain of a local diner about agricultural trivia as we have been very curious about some of the equipment, etc. we have seen. He advised that pecan harvest is just starting. Practices have become much more mechanized over the years. The nuts are now shaken from the trees by a machine onto the ground that has been cleared. Another piece of equipment picks up the nuts and sorts out the leaves, sticks, and debris. They are then taken to the shelling plant where the shells are processed for mulch. The finished nut product is then baked in your over for a Thanksgiving pie. Fascinating! Our local resource also said he worked one day in the chile fields as a kid. He rode on the back of a planting truck and had to keep the seeds from clogging. By the end of the day, his arms, hands, throat, eyes, were all burning so badly that he never did that job again. Surprisingly, we met three other cyclists on the road today. One heading east and two doing day trips out of this area. We stopped for the day at Lakeview RV Park in Caballo where we rented a cabin the size of an Ozark tool shed. It even came with a resident lizard that we were unable to evict. Before retiring, while Ann was attempting to remove the huge stickery tumble weed from our "yard", some of the prickly pear cacti attacked her. We spent some time extracting the needles from her left leg with tweezers. She didn't even whimper once.

LAND OF ENCHANTMENT

2010-11-03T22:19:00.011-05:00

San Miguel

Mesilla

Wednesday 11-3-10. We left the wonderful staff at the Holiday Inn in El Paso at 9 am wearing jackets and long pants to ward off the morning chill. With rush hour traffic almost over, we found Hwy 20 easily. It took us out of town and eventually connected to Hwy 28 that we rode into New Mexico. After a lengthy stay in Texas, we were looking forward to a 'Welcome to The Land of Enchantment' sign. Evidently the sign was placed on a more prominent road as we were never quite sure when we crossed the state line. The pavement was smooth (yeah!) and traffic was light. We cycled past cotton fields with the Franklin Mountains as a dramatic backdrop. We rode past miles of pecan orchards and in one area the trees canopied the road in dappled sunlight for almost 5 miles. A butter pecan ice cream cone was a must at Stahmann's Country Store. We also saw acres of red chili peppers and grape vineyards. By 11 am, the temperature was warm enough to shed our outer layer, several miles before reaching the tiny settlement of San Miguel. This village has a beautiful small Catholic church made of volcanic stone. History states that Jose Giron from Mexico City first settled in this area during the mid 1600's and brought with him a statue of St. Michael the Archangel. Over time, devotion to the saint grew and the community was named San Miguel. We stopped briefly in Mesilla which has a quaint plaza surrounded by adobe buildings. It is the historical section of Las Cruces and we felt almost as if we had entered a village in Mexico. We are in country that once was the stomping ground of William Bonny, aka Billy the Kid. He evidently had a reputation based more on fiction than fact. This was due in part to Sheriff Pat Garrett who killed Billy by ambushing him in the dark of night and then wrote a book about The Kid. Some historians believe Garrett's book embellished Billy's notoriety to conceal the fact he had killed someone so young. Today was a wonderful ride beneath blue sky to Las Cruces, home of New Mexico State University.

Butter My Butt and Call Me A Biscuit,, WE'RE ALMOST OUT OF TEXAS

2010-11-02T16:31:00.020-05:00

The Peace Maker - Seminole Canyon
Representation of Rock Art in Seminole Canyon Visitor Center

McDonald Observatory

Road Surface - Highway 90

Paisano Hotel Lobby
Dave & Tally
Marfa Lights Viewing Station - Yes, they even have a building with restrooms
Jay & Cheryl Congrats on your promotion Cheryl!
Outside Marfa
Roadside Companion

October 28, 29,30, Halloween, November 1, 2. Obviously, some catching up to do! We read an excerpt from a book that described western Texas as "waterless, sun-baked, and windy, where one could travel forever and see nothing." If the author had ridden a bicycle, he might have added, "on a road so rough your fingers would vibrate like tuning forks." Hwy 90 has rough pavement and becomes a fairly lonely road west of Del Rio once you cross the Amistad Reservoir/Recreation Area that is a joint project of the U.S. and Mexican governments. There are, however, several interesting, historic, and unique places tucked away in the desolate area between Del Rio and El Paso. Eleven miles west of Comstock is the Seminole Canyon State Park that has fascinating Indian Rock Art. Even today, no one fully understands the meaning of these paintings. Seminole Canyon gets its name from the Seminole Negro Indian Scouts garrisoned at Fort Clark in Brackettville. The Seminole Indians lived in Florida swamplands and welcomed escaped slaves. These slaves, called maroons, married into the tribe. In 1841, almost all Seminoles had been forced to relocate to Oklahoma which motivated many of the maroons to flee to Mexico, fearing slavery. The Mexican government utilized them to protect the northern border against hostile Indians in exchange for land. When the end of the Civil War abolished slavery, the U.S. Army began recruiting the Seminole maroons to protect settlements from Indian attacks. They were commanded by Lt. John Bullis, a white Quaker, who also commanded African American Infantry during the Civil War. Four of the Seminole maroon scouts were awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor for valor in combat against Comanche and Apache Indians.
About 18 miles west of the park, is the Judge Roy Bean Visitor Center in Langtry, Tx. Judge Bean had been appointed by the Texas Rangers to maintain law and order in this lawless land. What a character!! He operated a saloon, had a pet bear, and an obsession for the British actress, Lilly Langtry. His humor and six-shooter- form-of- justice made him a legend. He once promoted a world championship prize fight even though the state of Texas had outlawed boxing matches. He solved that problem by having the fight on a sandbar on the Mexican side of the river.
Another gem we discovered , by biking Hwy 118 through the Davis Mountains, was the town of Ft. Davis. It was a beautiful ride and a welcome sight to see rock formations rather than endless desert. The tiny community takes its name from an army post established in 1854 to protect emigrants and mail coaches along the San Antonio-El Paso Road from Apaches, Kiowas, and Comanches. By the 1880's, the fort had over 100 buildings and quarters for 400 soldiers. At the turn of the century, the climate attracted wealthy vacationers that locals referred to as "summer swallows". This community created such a western feel as we looked out on the main street from our balcony that we almost expected to see a dusty road, boardwalks, and a gun fight at high noon. We stayed in the Harvard Hotel, so named because Harvard University placed a radio telescope nearby.
Outside of Ft. Davis, off Hwy 17N, is the McDonald Observatory at 6200 ft. (the highest point in Texas) where we had the opportunity to attend a star party. Under the lights of the Milky Way and Jupiter hanging like a globe in the night, we experienced seeing features through 6 telescopes. It was mind-boggling.
On Saturday, we biked south to Marfa on Hwy 17. Nine miles east of Marfa is where mysterious lights appear at times, after the sun sets. The lights reportedly shoot, flash, hover in the night sky. They were first recorded in the late 1800's by a cowboy who thought they were Apache campfires. Since then this phenomena has been studied extensively without a definitive explanation. We lingered at the observation station for about one and 1/2 hours without seeing even a twinkle. We had been sure they would appear for us on Halloween, but it was not to be.
We overnighted at the historic Hotel Paisano where James Dean, Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, and Dennis Hopper lodged in the 1950's during the filming of the movie, "Giant." The hotel was completed in 1930 in anticipation of an oil boom that never materialized. A P.R. stunt to attract attention to the hotel was having a man buried alive on a corner of the construction site for 3 days. People could peek in at him through a feeding hole. Obviously, not much was going on in Marfa at the time. Marfa also has one of the most beautiful courthouses that we have seen on our trip. It is a majestic French architectural structure that is centered on the main street through town. Thanks to New York artist, Donald Judd, (born in Excelsior Springs, Mo.) the cultural life of Marfa was changed in the 1970's. Judd moved to Marfa and established the Chinati Foundation which purchased a number of buildings previously part of the former army post. The renovated buildings house a permanent collection of contemporary art as well as temporary exhibits by artists in residence. By invitation only, artists, writers, poets, and musicians instill Marfa with their creative energy. Thanks to Anita, Ann was informed about this upon arrival and whisked off to the afternoon tour. As usual in the friendly state of Texas, we met some very nice people on this leg of the journey: Tally & Dave from Dallas, Anita from Santa Cruz, Jay and Cheryl from Austin, and a couple at the light viewing who were on there way to Terlingua Tx (near Big Bend) for a chili cook-off. We thank them for taking some time to get acquainted. As we biked toward Van Horn, we passed a deserted junction that was once Lobo, Texas. The empty buildings a witness to how this harsh land can turn dreams to dust.
So now we are in El Paso, a city proud of its 400 year multicultural past with a population of 563,000 and growing. It is the birthplace of the margarita. It was reportedly created by Francisco "Pauncho" Morales at Tommy's Place Bar on July 4, 1945. Having arrived from some very remote area to the bustle of such a large metropolis just might call for a couple of Pauncho's concoctions.
Thank you for your patience in reading this long blog. We had some computer issues and changess in our routine. Thanks for checking back and we will hope to keep your interest. Our donations are adding up and we appreciate everyone. The walkers have raised close to $2,000. You guys are awesome!

COMPLETION: MAP 4 of 6

2010-10-28T21:17:00.007-05:00

Thursday 10-28-10. Despite some rough pavement, the ride from Fort Clark to Del Rio was very enjoyable. No major climbs, temp in the low 70's. minimal traffic, and an overcast sky. Closing in on Del Rio, we passed Laughlin Air Force Base, where single prop trainers buzzed about like angry hornets. We had been communicating with the Del Rio bike shop that ordered new tires for Ann's bike. We have now ridden 1,735 miles. Unfortunately, the tires did not arrive today, so we overnight in Del Rio and await their delivery tomorrow. The layover gave us time to strategize how we should best tackle the next 452 miles to El Paso. This is a desolate section with stretches of 80 miles without water or places to stay except some primitive and waterless campgrounds. From Del Rio, we have a multitude of climbs for approximately 200 miles that top out at 6,200 feet. We previously met 2 cyclists heading east that had sag support on this section. A number of people we have met in Texas have advised us to skip this portion of the route due to some drug cartel issues. However, there are several interesting things tucked away in this region that we don't want to miss - prehistoric rock art in Seminole Canyon Park, the mysterious lights of Marfa, and perhaps McDonald Observatory. All of these are off route and would add a number of additional days to our ride. So......we decided to rent a vehicle. We will take turns cycling while one drives sag carrying lots of water and food. This will allow us to drive to some of these poiint of interest, then return to our route and begin cycling again. Who says you can't have it all? Devoted friend, Martee Robinson, had volunteered to sag this section for us; however, she has already gone above and beyond the call of duty by keeping our dog, Zenee, entertained. Until we reach El Paso, our internet access may be limited. We will stay in touch as often as possible. We are extremely appreciative of your interest and support. Buenos Noches.

HISTORIC GEM

2010-10-28T19:08:00.011-05:00

Wednesday 10-27-10 Uvalde to Brackettville/Fort Clark Springs, Texas. We left on Hwy 90 and rode past a few plowed fields before the desert began dominating the landscape: creosote, cacti, mesquite, sage, and Joshua trees became our roadside scenery. It is desolate country and our route had no services for 43 miles. The pavement had a rough surface that caused a lot of vibration into our hands/teeth. We climbed a constant series of long hills that stair-stepped us through the desert. Around 11:30 a hot wind kicked up out of the west. We saw a number of Monarch butterflies giving their all, battling the wind on their attempt to make it to Mexico. At one point, we rode past several high tech night lights and cameras located across the highway from a Border Patrol Station where vehicles traveling east were being searched. It made us aware that we are less than 100 miles from the border with Mexico. We later discovered that the temp hit 95 during our ride which made the oasis of Ft. Clark Springs, near Brackettville, a welcome destination. Ann found this gem on the Internet and it is listed on the National Historic Registry. Fort Clark was established at Las Moras Spring in 1852 at a site long favored by indigenous Coahuiltecan Indians, and later by Commanche and Apache tribes. It was a strategic anchor fort in a cordon of army posts that were established to guard the border with Mexico and protect settlements in the area from Indian attacks. By 1875, there were 275 stationed at the fort residing in limestone barracks, officers quarters, and complimented by numerous other stone buildings that served the fort. There is a long honor roll of officers that served there: George C. Marshall (U.S. Chief of Staff in WWII), Gen. Jonathan Wainwright (hero of Bataan), and George Patton. The fort was officially deactivated in 1946. Today, Fort Clark is a privately owned retirement/recreation community encompassing 2,700 acres. The large spring still feeds Las Moras Creek as well as a 300' x 100' swimming pool that has year round 68 degree water, which we thoroughly enjoyed after a hot day on the road. Enormous oak, pecan, and magnolia trees surrounded the pool in a park-like setting. We learned that the Monarchs had just blanketed the creek days ago on their flight south. Some of the old stone barracks have been reconfigured to motel rooms. We stayed the night in the George Patton barracks directly across from the original parade ground. Many of the old limestone buildings have been renovated and are home to residents living in this lovely and unique place. Liz and Tony Hodges invited us into their home which has been beautifully renovated/decorated with the eye of an artist. Liz happens to paint fabulous colorful canvasses when she is not busy teaching students at the Alternative School in Brackettville. Thanks so much Liz and Tony!

YIPPEE KI YAY

2010-10-26T21:01:00.006-05:00

Tuesday, 10-26-10. Yippee ki yay-No headwind today! The weather service reported a 5mph breeze out of the NW and we are headed south and then west. We changed a rear flat on Ann's bike Shirley before we left the motel in Bandera. Once again, we lingered too long at breakfast talking with Doug who is a cyclist/runner and does historical restoration work. He was envious of our adventure. The first 20 miles on Hwy173S had us cycling over and past stony hills. At the top of the climbs we could look back and see the ridge lines of the hill country that captivated us for the previous six days. We experienced a steep descent at mile 21 and then had a prairie-flat 8 miles to Hondo Tx. With a slight tailwind, we easily cranked 18-20mph stopping only once to take a photo of a beautiful field of cabbage. At Hondo, we turned west on Hwy 90. The road was flat with a shoulder that, at times, was somewhat rough. We biked past plowed fields that apparently grew cotton as evidenced by the large amount of the white fluffy stuff along the roadside. The plowed fields alternated with desert scrub as the highway ran parallel with railroad tracks that had a reasonable amount of train traffic. We crossed several creeks and the Frio River, all bone dry. That served as a reminder that as we travel west, water and settlements will become somewhat scarce. We arrived in Uvalde at 4:30 after biking 70 miles.

TEXAS IS BIGGER THAN IT USED TO BE

2010-10-25T21:11:00.010-05:00

Sunday, 10-24-10, was a rest day in Kerrville. The most enjoyable part to a nice relaxing day was the opportunity to go to dinner with Tim and Nikko, whom we had met in Navasota a week ago. (You may have seen them on a previous post dressed in Renaissance garb) They live fairly close to Kerrville and were nice enough to drive over and chauffeur us to a lovely spot on the Guadalupe River for dinner. We had a ball sharing stories and watching the sunset. Nikko wowed us in his new kilt. What a delight, thanks Tim & Nikko!

Monday, 10-25-10, we got a late start in order to let some heavy fog burn off. We headed south on 173. Despite a steady wind blowing from the southwest, the scenery was awesome as we climbed our final hills of the Texas Hill Country. Nikko informed us last night that the Texas Hill Country is as large as the country of Scotland, but only a small part of the State of Texas. We have been riding in this beautiful hill country for 6 days and have thoroughly enjoyed both the scenery and the people we have met. At mile 14, we came upon the Camp Verde General Store/post office/cafe. The present 2-story stone building was built at the turn of the century after a flood washed away the original building founded in 1857. In 1854, Jefferson Davis (who later became president of the Confederacy) petitioned Congress to appropriate $30,000 so the army could experiment with camels for military purposes. In April 1856, 33 camels arrived from Egypt to Ft. Camp Verde located one mile from the general store. By 1865, the fort had 100 camels that reportedly outperformed the horses/mules usually used as pack animals. However, after the Civil War, the War Dept. did not have the funds to continue the camel experiment. Today the Camp Verde General Store remains as a popular gathering place for people living in the area. During our stop at the store, we were once again pleasantly ambushed by friendly Texans who easily convinced us to stay awhile and get acquainted. We did finally make our way to Bandera, the Cowboy Capital of the World. Once again, we had an opportunity to visit with our new friends, Tim and Amy over a pleasant dinner. Thank you Tim and Amy, we hope our paths will cross again! Is it true what Mark Chestnut sings: Texas Is Bigger Than It Used To Be?

I BOUGHT THE SHOES THAT WALKED OUT ON ME

2010-10-24T15:20:00.007-05:00

On Saturday 10-23-10, when we left Fredericksburg, it was a blustery overcast morning with a powerful wind blowing from the direction we were headed. We shifted up to the bigger cogs in the rear and the lower in the front, put our heads down, and spun on toward Kerrville. The wind didn't allow the luxury of much looking around or stopping to enjoy the vistas. At one brief stop, it blew Ann's bike over, about 77 lbs. loaded. It took us 3 1/2 hours to bike 28 miles. When we arrived, we visited the Hill Country Bike Shop and later checked in at the Y.O. Resort Ranch Motel. Ann had difficulty finding a room on the weekend and had this pictured as somewhat like a YMCA. Nice surprise! Later that afternoon, a thunderstorm swept through and we were informed that hail and 60mph winds assaulted the area we left this am. We dodged a big bullet today. Although our hotel fronts Hwy 16, it is still a part of the Y.O. Ranch. Since 1880, the Y.O. has been the oldest family owned working ranch in Texas and comprises 40,000 acres. The entrance for the working part of the ranch is about 30 miles from the hotel. The ranch has longhorn cattle, as well as exotic wildlife, and facilitates photography tours, trail drives, and retreats. The hotel has a lot of western art, several large branding iron chandeliers, and a western themed saloon. When we walked into the saloon, there were lots of boots, big buckles, and cowboy hats bellied up to the bar. We played a game of pool while listening to the juke box moan "I bought the shoes that walked out on me." This is an interesting place jumping with an Elks convention this weekend. Joshua Brown is credited with the founding of Kerrville. He discovered giant cypress trees near the upper Guadalupe River which led to the development of a shingle-making camp that is today the location of this town.

WILLKOMMEN

2010-10-22T19:10:00.010-05:00

VEREINS KIRCHE First public building in Fredricksburg. Served as town hall, school, fort & church

Friday, 10-22-10, we check out of the brand-spanking new Luxury Suite Hotel in Blanco where Ann had convinced the owner, Bharat Patel, to discount our room even below their corporate rate. She has done this several times on our trip and has earned the reputation as The Negotiator. As we left, the pavement was wet from rain showers and the sky had low dark clouds racing about. We decided to go 35 miles off route and check out Fredricksburg Texas. Our friend Paula, and several people we have met, have this quaint German town on their "don't miss list." We left Blanco on 1623 and for 5 miles enjoyed a flat section of road that paralleled the Blanco River. We then encountered some gradual climbs reminding us that we were still in Hill Country. At about mile 10, the hills became more pronounced-long with steep grades. We had to hold on very tight on our descents because of strong crosswinds. Ann commented that she had to use her granny gear for the first time; however, it wasn't enough and the last 50 feet were conquered by a walk. We saw large rock outcroppings similar to terrain on the high desert Colorado Plateau. We connected to Ranch Road 1888 and stopped briefly in Luckenbach where we saw no sign of "Willie, and the boys." Six miles on US Hwy 290 into Fredricksburg brought us back in touch with the traffic we had escaped all morning. A weekend Food & Wine Festival is on tap for the weekend. Willkommen signs were everywhere in town as were tasting rooms for wine and beer. Main Street Fredricksburg is full of interesting historic buildings housing art galleries, shops, museums, and German restaurants. It was founded in 1846 after a treaty with the Comanches It is said this was the only treaty with Native Americans that was never broken. A bronze monument in a lovely garden by the Marktplatz commemorates this occasion.

THE HILLS ARE ALIVE

2010-10-21T19:36:00.008-05:00

Yes, this is yesterday. But, Ann got to play in Cypress Creek too!

Thursday, 10-21-10, we have breakfast at The Wimberley Cafe and started climbing the Hill Country Trail on FR2325. We biked past some beautiful grassland fronted by wildflowers and dotted with large oak trees. After topping out on one of the hills, we saw a heard of brown-faced goats being chapperoned by a large Great Pyrennes. The big dog trotted toward us to check us out and the goats followed close behind. Wherever the dog went, the goats followed, no doubt aware that this giant dog is their protector. We connected to Rd 165 which took us the last 8 miles into Blanco. Just outside of town we crossed a section of the green Blanco River. This town is situated 45 miles south of San Antonio and 45 miles west of Austin. It was settled in 1853 and is the boyhood home of Lyndon Johnson. It was another beautiful day in Texas Hill Country.

TODAY WAS NOT (so much) ABOUT THE BIKE

2010-10-21T17:40:00.012-05:00

Vickie, Ann, and Billy Hallmark
Denise, you know her by her shirt, and Laurie

On Wednesday 10-20-10, we left Buda (they think you're a local if you pronounce it Beuda as in beautiful) after a great breakfast and being overindulged by the friendly staff at Hampton Inn. They printed great directions for us and gave us each ice cold water for our ride. We began on FR2770 that is a narrow road with minimal traffic and gradual climbs. We connected to FR150 that took us to the small hamlet of Mountain City, population 673, which has a high school football stadium that would be the envy of most small colleges. We saw signs announcing we were on the Texas Hill Country Trail. At about 8 miles, the climbs became longer and steeper. The landscape changed from lowland scrub to rocky hillsides and a profusion of encroaching cedars that dominated the roadside vegetation. Wildflowers were abundant which continues to surprise us this late in the season. Our climbs rewarded us with treetop views of gabled roofs peeking out of the heavily forested hillsides in the distance. Our descents were an exhilarating 35mph. Ranch Road 12 delivered us to the unique village of Wimberley. Colorful fall banners, artistic Halloween arrangements, a kaleidoscope of flowers & street art informed us that we had arrived in a very eclectic place. As we passed a guy sweeping in front of a shop, he shouted greetings and questions which lured us back. We returned and met Billy Hallmark and Vickie. That resulted in an hour and 1/2 of great conversation. Billy is a musician/songwriter who gave us a copy of his CD "Still Fallin" He said we could smear some peanut butter on it and eat it if we got hungry on the road. It was great hearing the stories and inspirations behind the songs on the album. At their suggestion, we meandered over to the Cypress Creek Cafe for lunch and met Denise and Laurie who are what every waitress should strive to become-a great balance of efficiency and friendliness. After visiting with them, well......the biking portion of our day was done. Everyone was so enthusiastic about their town that we knew we were meant to spend a little more time there. We went several yards down the street and checked into the Log Cabin Motel right on Cypress Creek where we later played in the water. We ended the day on the porch of our log motel quietly staring at a big white moon while being serenaded by tree frogs. The excitement of the day was seeing a large herd of deer stampeding down a hillside and a flock of turkeys parading past our cabin. To paraphrase a quote from Lance Armstrong, "Today was not about the bike." Today was all about meeting some wonderful people in a very beautiful place, Wimberley: Texas Hill Country.

B & B BASTROP & BUDA

2010-10-19T19:30:00.008-05:00

On Tuesday 10-19-10, we left Bastrop at 8:30 on Hwy 71/21 that took us to FR20, a narrow, hilly, ribbon of pavement that was prowled by big trucks. At mile 10 we stopped at a roadside store where we met Mike who was wearing a Texas longhorn ballcap. Mike likes maps and knew the roads in this area very well. He suggested we take FR812 to Hwy 21. 812 was great-quiet, smooth, and truck free. It passed mostly scrub land with small modest homesteads. Some had a few head of cattle, others had chickens. while a few had a collection of appliances and old cars that stopped working years ago. On Hwy 21 we encountered high speed traffic with about every 3rd vehicle being a big truck. However, we enjoyed a wide clean shoulder until we crossed the Caldwell/Hays county line. When you creep up a long curvy steep hill loaded with 40+ pounds, your bike can sometimes wobble a bit. On one of the hills, there was NO wobble room. So we pushed our bikes to the top using them as shields between us and a steady stream of trucks. We have concluded Texas surely has more trucks than Baptists and that is alot of trucks! While on 21, we saw a multitude of sunflowers and patches of prickly pear. We also saw a scissor-tail flycatcher which is one of our favorite birds. The big blue Texas sky was almost hidden by large white clouds that gave us some shelter from the afternoon sun, but were no doubt, somewhat responsible for our headwind. While taking a 10 minute break before heading into Buda, a nice guy pulled up and gave us 2 "country" pears. The kindness of the people we meet in this state is encouraging.

B & B BURTON & BASTROP

2010-10-18T22:39:00.011-05:00

Washington House at Knittel Inn - Home was moved to the property and reconstructed
Knittel Inn
Roundtop

It would be a shot of the actual river, but it was a narrow bridge with no shoulder, sorry!

On Monday 10-18-10, breakfast at the Knittel Inn in Burton was great as was visiting with owners Carmen & Steve. This couple has made the property a showcase for design, hospitality & elegance. The original house was built by a Prussian immigrant (Knittel) who fought in the Confederate Army and became a successful merchant/politician after the Civil War. A number of German immigrants settled in this area and there exists, even today, stories about their lives. One example is about a German shoe cobbler who lived in Burton repairing shoes & leather tack. He worked 6 days a week. He earned the respect of the town because he never charged for repairing the shoes of children. There are so many small pieces of history being preserved in the area. Carmen said that shortly after they moved here, she heard a commotion outside and upon investigation, saw a parade with horses and all go past their house. The unique thing about the parade was that the participants were all African-American. When she sought an explanation, she learned that the local plantation owners did not immediately inform their slaves about the Emancipation Proclamation. They wanted to break the news after the slaves had harvested the cotton crop. The parade was to celebrate the local date of emancipation that is somewhat later than the rest of the country. Our ride today started in a dense fog until we reached the community of Roundtop, population 77. For such a tiny place there are a number of neat old historic buildings still in use as cafes and shops. We visited the worlds "smallest" Catholic Church, St. Michaels. Near LaGrange, we crossed the Colorado River where cattle drives from Texas to New Orleans would forge. We took Hwy 71 to Bastrop where we found a bike shop. Ann's bike had developed an annoying clicking sound we could not get resolved. It also stumped John, the bike mechanic. We were like 3 monkeys trying to figure out how to open a bottle of coke. We finally lucked upon a pedal adjustment and all is again smooth & quiet. The excitement of the day was a deer darting in front of Ann as she was tucked, zooming downhill. The best sign we saw read, "Fat people are harder to kidnap" All the more reason for us to eat this great Tex-Mex food we can't seem to resist.

PLANTATION ROCK

2010-10-18T20:07:00.013-05:00

Sunday, 10-17-10, it took us 8 1/2 hours to ride 45 miles. Was it the increased number of hills we are now encountering? That is a factor, but not totally. Was it the headwind that kicked up in the afternoon? It may have slowed us a little but not that much. Was it the friendly people in Southeast Texas? YES! That is what did it. It started at breakfast when we met 3 nice people who were "costumed up" for a nearby Renaissance Festival. We so enjoyed talking to Tim, Amy, and Nikko that we started a little later than planned. Tim & Amy offered future assistance, if needed, and we are hoping we might have a chance to cross paths again. We left Navasota on 105 and crossed the Brazos River. The terrain then became hilly, one climb following another. This will be the case for the next 280+ miles as we climb toward the convoluted Texas Hill Country. Gone are the days of the lovely flatlands. As we topped the hills, we enjoyed panoramic views to faint ridgelines on the horizon. This is vast, open country. There are both huge ranch homes peeking over clusters of trees from behind elaborate gates as well as abandoned little homes tucked away in the weeds & wildflowers. The latter make you wonder about the people who lived there and what became of their hopes, dreams, & aspirations. We came upon the beautiful Hatfield Plantation Home that was built by slave labor in 1853. As we were photographing the place from the road, Ben Beauchamp (pronounced Beecham) pulled up and invited us on the property. Ben is a retired attorney from Houston who has a nice retreat in the woods nearby. He checks on the plantation for the owners. We toured the magnificent home where one of the unique features was plaster casts of the hands of the slave that supervised the construction. heard about the other structures on the property, and met Waylon & Willie, the 20 year old Percheron draft horses who ate out of our hands. When we left, Ben gave us an alternate route on Gaskamp Road that would take us by his place. When we arrived there, he had cold orange juice for us and an invite to come sit on his deck. Ben was very likely a good litigator since he held our attention with his wonderful stories. He invited us to stay for spaghetti, but there are only so many hours of daylight! Our next stop was at the Weiss Store. It was a store at one time, but now serves as the monthly meeting place for the oldest rifle club in the State of Texas. What a great group of people. They offered food, beverage, and enjoyable information about the area. Hit bullseyes y'all! The free beer was not enough to numb our butts for the remaining hills to Burton. However, we were refreshed as soon as we arrived at Knittle Inn and were greeted by Carmen & Steve. They served us salad & pizza for dinner and promised breakfast the next morning. Before bed, we listened to Elvis sing Plantation Rock. Sweet Dreams!

NavaSOta Rest

2010-10-18T19:42:00.003-05:00

Our previous rest day in Baton Rouge we failed to truly rest. We wanted to do better in Navasota on Saturday (10-16) and we did! We rode to town but it was only about 3 miles. Norb cleaned the bikes. We both got hair cuts, read, went to the pool, perused the ever-present maps, had route discussions, and watched the 4th quarter of the Mizzou football game against Texas A & M. Lovely day of rest after 8 consecutive days of riding.

BILL IS THE MAN

2010-10-16T09:15:00.009-05:00

On Friday, 10-15-10, we left our motel rather late since the bike shop in Conroe did not open until 9:30. The owner, Bill, had arranged to have some tubes overnighted for us. We had an enjoyable time visiting with him and taking in all the memorabilia in his shop. At 11:15, the UPS gal showed up with the needed tubes. We also had the opportunity to visit with Angie, a nurse, who was in the shop to buy the yellow Trek she has been eyeing and saving for. Boy was she excited and we were excited for her. Ride like the wind Angie!! We continued our day riding on the shoulder of busy Hwy 105 toward Navasota, Texas. We stopped by the blue waters of Lake Conroe to eat our bagel and apples for a 20 minute break from traffic noise. As we continued west, the scenery was reminiscent of Missouri - pastureland with hedgerows and large round bales of hay. As we entered the city limits of Montgomery, a sign proudly announced it was the birthplace of the Texas flag. West of Montgomery, we experienced a series of long but gradual rolling hills. A slight breeze blew toward us from the west beneath a cloudless sky. We passed several large cattle ranches with four-board wooden fences that seemed to stretch for miles. Several of them had elaborate stone entrances with huge wrought iron gates. Ann set a blistering pace all day so we could reach Navasota and start relaxing for our rest day tomorrow. Although we contended with much traffic noise, we were chased by ZERO dogs today. Serendipitously, twenty-nine miles away Mizzou will play Texas A & M at College Station tomorrow. Go Tigers!

DON'T bELIEVE ALL THOSE LIES

2010-10-14T21:13:00.005-05:00

We know we are in Texas now!

Thursday 10-14-10. Today we rode from Kountze to Conroe Texas, 81 miles, our longest day yet. We had 2 options for riding today. One was to stay on the Adventure Cycling route that promised narrow, rough roads infested with logging trucks and questionable lodging. We opted to go off route and take Hwy 105 to Conroe, since it has a bike shop and we need tubes for Ann's bike. We called the sheriff's office to inquire about traffic on 105 and whether or not the road had shoulders. The sheriff's office told us we should contact the Texas DOT, who referred us to the Dept. of Public Safety. Evidently the agencies who patrol and patch the highway did not have the information we needed. Public Safety said they would have someone call us. A nice guy did call. Although he tried to be helpful, he did not know if the highway had shoulders. He did recall it had alot of traffic. He stated it had been years since he had driven that far west. Well, we need tubes since Ann's spares are patched, as is the tube in her rear wheel. She is now affectionately referred to as "PATCHES". We took 105 hoping for shoulders. We had great ones for 50 miles and stopped for lunch in Cleveland at the new Fish Tales restaurant. A group of locals told us 105 to Conroe had no shoulders-was dangerous with lots of truck traffic-and offered alternate routes that may have taken us all night. We stayed on 105 and, lo and behold, we biked nice shoulders all the way. As the song says, "Don't believe all those lies, Darlin' just believe your eyes"

THE BIG THICKET

2010-10-13T19:38:00.004-05:00

Wednesday, 10-13-10. When we left our motel in Kirbyville, a man drove up in a pickup truck, hopped out, and asked if he could approach us. Once permission was granted, he began ranting about all kinds of conspiratorial things including a horrible murder that had transpired in the very motel where we spent the night. Schizophrenia is, without doubt, a terrible illness that can trick ones mind to be fearful of almost everyone and everything. We said goodbye to our friend and headed west on US96 where ten miles outside the small town of Buna we cycled past a tiny section of Big Thicket National Preserve. The Thicket is so named because it is extremely thick and brushy with undergrowth that forms a nearly impenetrable jungle. It once covered more than 1 million acres. Big Thicket became a refuge for service-dodging Texans hunted by the Confederate Army, who became known as bushwhackers, a term which survives today. It was an enjoyable day of riding to Kountze TX beneath a blue sky with temperatures in the low 80's.

THE EYES OF TEXAS

2010-10-12T18:49:00.010-05:00

Two Welcome Signs as Texas constitutes over 1,000 miles of our trip

Post Ride Yoga - No Shower Until We Have Stretched
Kirbyville Gateway Motel

Tuesday, 10-12-10. By 8am the clouds remaining from a thunder storm last night began breaking up, allowing some sunshine. We had previously ignored a warning from Adventure Cycling about avoiding rush hour. Since it was again advised for this section, we checked email. Our friend Anne Cox in Springfield sent us an article from MSNBC that had a photo of us meeting with Roger Grooters along the road. The headline read, "Mourners Pay Tribute to Charity Cyclist Killed in Crash." We met Roger and his wife Vicki who was driving a support vehicle for their cross-country journey to raise money for Gulf Coast Oil Spill Victims. They impressed us as being a generous couple and offered to place our blog site on his. Three days after we met them, Roger was struck by a pickup truck only 300 miles from completing his ride across the Southern Tier. Our hearts are heavy. You can visit his site at rogerxcountry.blogspot.com. Our thoughts today were with his family and we hope the memories they hold of him will help them deal with this tragedy. As we took to the road, Hwy 190 had nice wide shoulders separating us from the big logging trucks. We passed large stands of pine trees that seem to be grown for a nearby paper mill and a plant that manufactures plywood. At mile 23, we crossed the Sabine River and entered Texas, state #5 and definitely the largest of our 8 state odyssey. We turned onto Farm Road 363 which was much quieter. It had no shoulder, but the logging trucks were respectful of the small space we occupied near the white line. We arrived in Kirbyville, TX as the gray clouds overhead began connecting, promising rain before days end. This town was settled in 1894 at the foot of what became known as the "Scrapping Valley." The name derived from a feud between two local families during the 1870's that resulted in lots of shootings. Local citizens asked the Texas Rangers to stop the feud. Unfortunately the feud did not end peacefully. It ended with a pitched gun battle between the feuding families and the Rangers, who reportedly reduced the number of family members by an even dozen. Again, thanks to all who are supporting us from afar. It means alot to know you are there. Peace.

WINDING DOWN STATE #4

2010-10-11T16:58:00.004-05:00

Monday, 10-11-10, we leave the Oberlin Inn on a hazy morning. The road is smooth with moderate traffic. The pine trees are mixed with oaks & maples that are starting to show fall colors. Clumps of yellow wildflowers bloom along the road. By 11 am, dark clouds begin banking up to the west and south, but don't concern us much as we are only 2 hours from our destination of DeRitter, Louisiana. Many of the signs now inform us we are in Creole country. Our research indicates Creoles are of Spanish/French ancestry, primarily from Louisiana. As this is a fairly short day, we have time to relax and enjoy a lazy afternoon. Despite slathering ourselves with great sunblock provided by daughter Sylena, we are browner and more freckled than either of us have ever been. No doubt, two examples that would be horror stories for the American College of Dermatology. If weather permits, tomorrow we will be "Leaving Louisiana In The Broad Daylight".

LISTEN TO THE MOCKINGBIRD

2010-10-11T15:54:00.007-05:00

After breakfast, we are ready to go before 9:00, but get delayed chatting with Paul Bienvenue. ("welcome" in French) He lost 120 lbs. by starting to ride his bicycle and is now doing triathalons. He and his wife were here for his 20th high school reunion and seemed to have a blast. Paul reminded us of friend Steve Edwards in appearance and Steve also likes to do ultra events. We biked through the quiet Sunday morning streets of Opelouasas and stopped at the courthouse to snap photos of fiddle-art that lined the front lawn. The artwork represents the history this town has with Zydeco music and also features some of the local things that grow around here such as yams and yellow catfish. We rode SR104 to Hwy 26 toward Oberlin, a town with 1400 people and one motel, The Oberlin Inn. We encountered some rough pavement on 104 and a slight headwind. We didn't however, encounter a constant parade of big trucks blasting past us. It was great riding on roads quiet enough to again hear the songs of mockingbirds. We cycled past rice fields, some speckled with crawfish traps. Whenever the fields are flooded, the water forces the crawfish into the traps that subsequently deliver them somewhere for great cajun gumbo. Yesterday, while crossing the bridge that spans the wide and muddy Atchafalaya River, a sign stated "Welcome to the heart of cajun country" Some of the people we have met have spoken with a hint of the interesting cajun dialect. At mile 25, we stop at Piggly Wiggly in Manou for some apples and had a great time joking around with a trio of locals who could not believe we wanted to ride our bikes to California. We ate our apples on the porch of Frenchies Restaurant, which was closed for the day. We passed over small muddy creeks that no doubt snaked their way to hidden bayous. A highlight of the day was riding past a stoic red hawk perched on a wire. The excitement of the day was Ann outrunning a determined 3-legged dog that ambushed her. We had no idea a 3-legged dog could run that fast. Thankfully we saw our only big truck of the day on Hwy 26 as we were borrowing the shade of a big oak tree at a roadside farm. The only place open on Sunday evening to eat was a casino 10 miles south of Oberlin that provided a free shuttle. Although the food was good, the noise and crowds of people were overwhelming. We celebrated hitting the 1,000 mile mark today.

ZYDECO & CAJUN COUNTRY

2010-10-09T21:58:00.005-05:00

Saturday, 10-9-10. Getting across the state of Louisiana is beginning to feel like a version of the movie Groundhog Day. But, instead of being stuck in one location, we seem to be stuck with repeatedly having to ride busy highways with crummy shoulders. Today the ferry we hoped would take us across the Mississippi River from St. Francisville, and on to some quiet backroads, is broken. Now the only way across the big river is to ride back over much of the noisy route we have already biked and take the old narrrow-lengthy-no shouldered Huey Long Bridge on Hwy190. Big trucks rule this bridge. We hang out drinking coffee and talking with a neat couple, Kathy and Warren, who are riding Harleys. We hope the ferry can get repaired by mid morning. A call to the ferry offered no hope that it would be operational today or even tomorrow. Without any prompting by us, B & B owner Laurie arranged for her dad to drive us over the bridge. We gladly accepted since we had already ridden this section yesterday. On 190 we pedal hard toward Opelousas, the Zydeco music capital of the world. Once again we are a little off route but an extra 8 miles tomorrow will square that. We pass sugar cane fields and cross several long narrow bridges, one being four miles long. Ann sets a fast pace and Norb stays eight feet behind with his flashing red light. We pedal hard and arrive after 54 miles, somewhat deaf from the traffic noise but happy to be in the heart of Cajun Country. We ate some good Cajun food tonight which cleared our sinuses and watered our eyes. (Those of you familiar with Cajun cuisine will recognize the boudin above right) Norb said if there was a Zydeco concert in the lobby of our motel, he would be too tired to go unless Jesus was playing the accordion.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE A DAY MAKES

2010-10-09T20:37:00.007-05:00

We had a late start on Friday, 10-8-10. It felt great sleeping in a bit later. We rode through a somewhat depressing area on the outskirts of Baton Rouge. Seeing the world from a bike seat provides a close encounter with the realities of life many people live each & every day. It seems the gap between the haves and have nots continues to widen. We take Hwy 61N, referred to as Scenic Byway, which is a major misnomer. We passed rusty oil refineries and a series of chemical plants. Some refer to this road as cancer alley. It was not until 20 miles into the day that we experienced any decent shoulders. The traffic was heavy and extremely noisy. We stopped for a quick lunch at a roadside food shack where we spoke with 2 guys on their way to compete in a kayak race on the MS River. They apologized, as do many Louisiana residents we have met, for the rudeness of their drivers and for the poor conditions of the roads in their state. We arrived in St. Francisville at 2pm and took a room at the St. Francisville Inn B & B. It was built in the mid 1800s and has a rustic charm. Owners Pat and Laurie Walsh moved here from New Orleans 20 years ago. Pat is a web designer who works primarily on his front porch with 2 huge screens. This town is often referred to as "The town 2 miles long and 2 yards wide". The town is built on the crest of a ridge that slopes on both sides to steep wooded gullies. During the 1730's, Spanish monks moved their burial ground across the river to the higher bluffs. The settlement that grew around the graveyard took its' name from their patron, St. Francis. This is a beautiful town of 1300 people, decorated with enormous live oaks draped with Spanish moss, & accented with homes and cottages reminiscent of a time when cotton was king. One of our favorite sites was Grace Episcopal Church that was built in the mid 1800's. This Gothic structure is shaded by huge trees and surrounded by a large cemetery with unique headstones. The church was severely damaged by shelling from Federal gunboats during the Civil War. A casualty of battle, John Hart, a gunboat captain, had always desired a Masonic burial. Fighting stopped for a day while Confederate and Union Masons honored his request and his body rests in the cemetery here. A local resident we met on our walking tour stated that, at times, small circles of light can be seen floating gently through the air near the church, which some believe are the spirits of those who found this place too beautiful to leave. We warned you earlier, southerners love their ghost stories.

CATCHING UP ON PHOTOS

2010-10-09T20:05:00.008-05:00

Do you remember we were having a glitch. We think it is resolved?
Old Capital Building - Louisiana's Capital City
Le Baton Rouge (See that Red Stick, that's it!)

Mississippi River Bridge in Baton Rouge from the levee
Global Wildlife Center mentioned a few days ago

CAPITAL CITY

2010-10-07T23:04:00.003-05:00

Thursday 10-7-10 is a rest day in Baton Rouge. We rise early and clean our bikes before breakfast. We then ride to a bike shop to get spare tubes for Shirley. She has encountered 3 flats since we began. We then rode to downtown Baton Rouge. Louisiana's state capital, which has an interesting mix of old and new architecture. We cycled the trail on top of the levee which separates parts of BR from the Mississippi River. The trail also took us to the campus of LSU. In 1699, French explorers saw a red cypress pole that marked the boundary between the Houma and Bayou Goula Indian tribes. The French called this tree "Le Baton Rouge", the red stick. One of the state's most colorful governors was the infamous Huey Long, "The Kingfish", who ruled every corner of the state like a banana republic dictator from 1935 to 1945. He even shamefully appointed his brother as the State Treasurer. Huey was shot to death on the steps of the capital building in 1945. Apparently there is no clear understanding about whether the shooting was an assassination or an accidental shooting by his trigger-happy body guard. Huey Long was the inspiration for a book titled, "All The King's Men." Some believe that his ghost now inhabits the old capital building which resembles a castle. This area is cajun country with the mysterious swamps of the Atchafalaya Basin nearby. Many believe these swamps are also haunted. The South does love its ghost stories.
We are having some photo glitches and are really tired so we will try to add them later. Sorry!

NO KODACHROME IN HEAVY TRAFFIC

2010-10-07T22:44:00.002-05:00

Wednesday, 10-6-10, Hammond to Baton Rouge, LA. Once again, we ride Hwy 190 toward Baton Rouge. In Albany, we took a brief respite from the traffic and met Elizabeth Buckner who made a donation to CMN. Thank you Elizabeth! Near the town of Holden, we were greeted by Lloyd Stewart, who interestingly enough, lives on Lloyd Stewart Road nearby. Because Lloyd has done some bicycling, he was concerned about our safety while riding in such heavy traffic. He offered us a ride that we kindly declined. He then said he would call ahead to his brother, Raymond, who would intercept us down the road on his return from a meeting. He could then provide advice about the best routes into Baton Rouge. What a nice guy! Several miles later, we met brother Raymond who gave us good info about bike shops and routes. He too offered to give us a ride which we again declined. We arrived at Best Western Chateau Louisianne at 3:30. The owner, Mary, upgraded us to a suite for the same price as a standard room. Wow! For 2 people who are happy as clams when we find a motel with 2 bars of soap, the Marquis de Lafayette Suite was like entering a French Quarter Dream. Ann called the Stewart brothers to let them know we made it without incident.

RURAL LOUISIANA

2010-10-07T21:50:00.004-05:00

On Tuesday, 10-5-10 we rode from Franklinton LA to Hammond LA. It was another chilly morning. Once again we deviated from the planned route in order to find lodging for the night. Whenever we call a place that is listed and a recording says, "No longer a working number", it does not inspire confidence that the place will mysteriously reopen by the time we arrive. So, we head a bit south and then west on Hwy 190 toward Hammond. Along the way, we pass the Global Wildlife Center which looks more like the plains of Africa. Although it is a short 44 mile ride, we have to hold a straight line on the white line due to heavy traffic that includes logging trucks. The blast of air these trucks create while passing us does have a nice pine scent. We anticipated Hammond being a quiet little town, but found it to be a bustling berg as a result of folks moving inland post-Katrina.

OVER BROWN WATERS

2010-10-07T21:29:00.005-05:00

On Monday, 10-4-10, after a great breakfast prepared by the Gilmores and changing a flat tire, we headed out wearing jackets to keep the chill off. We meandered through quiet backroads where sumac was starting to show fall color. Highway 43 to Hwy 26 that becomes Hwy 10 as we cross the Pearl River near Bogalusa and enter the state of Louisiana. The terrain is rolling hills that cross a series of creeks which are tributaries of Bogue Chitto. The waters are a chocolate brown with emerging cypress trees. Highway 1072 takes us to Franklinton, LA for the night after a 57 mile day. Adventure Cycling listed 3 places for lodging, but only one was still operational. The recession, and then the BP oil spill have devastated the rural economy to the extent that many
B & B's and motels are now shuttered. Thankfully for us, the Liberty Inn was still open even though we counted only 2 vehicles in the parking lot.

COUNTRY ROADS TAKE ME HOME

2010-10-07T09:49:00.003-05:00

On Sunday 10-3-10 we rode from Biloxi to Poplarville, MS. A trifecta that no cyclist wants on a ride is a combination of hills/a strong headwind/big mean dogs. We, at least, did not have to contend with big mean dogs. The wind and hills on Highway 53 N toward Poplarville made this a challenging ride. 10 mph on the flats and 6 mph on the hills made for a long 62 mile day. It was, however, a bright sunny day with roadside black-eyed susans and an array of other wildflowers. At mile 35 we stopped for a banana & bagel picnic in the shade of tall pine trees near a small cemetery. Although Highway 53 had narrow shoulders, they were gouged with deep divots 6 inches apart apparently to wake up drivers who fall asleep so they would know whether they hit a tree or a utility pole. Straying onto these loaf-panned size divots can be a bone-jarring experience. After we arrive in Poplarville, Karen & Bill Gilmore picked us up and drove us 7 miles to their neat place in the country. Karen & Bill have 9 children ranging in age from 25 to 6 years. 8 of the children were home when we arrived. What a delightful crew of young people! They helped us with a computer glitch, played instruments and sang for us, put dinner together, did the dishes, and along with their parents, made us feel welcome into their family home. Bill works as an electrical technician for a rural co-op while Karen home schools their children. This is a hard-working, self reliant family. They have 30 chickens, a small heard of cattle, a huge garden, and a sawmill they built so they could harvest trees on their property that were used to build a house for their eldest son. One of our favorite stories of the evening was about how the kids raised the money for a family vacation to Colorado. They sold produce, picked blueberries to sell, put up hay, and even stripped copper out of discarded wire to sell. How many kids do you know out there who are hustling up bucks to take mom and dad on vacation? Neighbors Don & Mary Malley also joined us for dinner and it was interesting hearing their stories about the area. It was a great evening with a great group of people and worth every inch of ground we covered that day.

CROSSING OVER (AL to MS)

2010-10-05T21:11:00.010-05:00

Englishman John Moffit (we like Lorna too!)
Norb at Audubon Sanctuary-Dauphin Island

On Saturday, October 2, we had a true southern breakfast at Dauphin (pronounced Dolphin) Inn prepared by owners George and Carol. Eggs, bacon, sausage, bacon, grits, homemade jam. More than enough to get a couple of bikers well down the road. We were slow to leave as we so enjoyed the interesting conversation with these two B & B owners. Carol is quite the historian, and informed us that Dauphin Island was the first capital of the Louisiana Territory. She also stated that at one time, women from interior Indian tribes would travel to this island to plant seeds. Once the seedlings sprouted, the women would carry them back to their villages to plant. Early French explorers would follow the women making their explorations into the interior much easier. We crossed a 4 1/2 mile bridge spanning the Mississippi Sound as we left the island. Far below, we could see brown pelicans diving for fish, and in the distance were numerous platforms in the water drilling for gas. Until you actually see all the derricks, it is impossible to fathom how much drilling transpires in these waters. We biked into a headwind to Bayou la Batre, AL. The movie Forrest Gump was filmed in this small town. Evidently this Hollywood notoriety hasn't done much to attract tourists since the only motel in town was closed. Our options for lodging took us off route via Hwy 90 to Biloxi, MS. During our ride we met 2 nice couples who were on motorcycles, Don & Mary Malley and Bill & Karen Gilmore. We crossed paths about 3 times and then they pulled over to invite us to visit them in their hometown. We rode to the top of an enormous bridge that connected the town of Ocean Spring to Biloxi. Below we could see the high rise hotels and casinos as we descended with our computers registering 35 mph. Sugarland sings, "Down in Mississippi, Up to No Good" We rode 65 miles today and are excited to make it to Mississippi, state #3!

WHAT A WONDERFUL (small) WORLD

2010-10-05T08:34:00.004-05:00

On Friday 10/1/10, we left our motel and met John Moffit who, with his wife Lorna are from England and vacationing in the southern U.S. During their vacation they will also drive to Springfield, Mo. to visit friends. Is it a small world or what? John wears a colorful crocheted hat and totes about a suitcase that harkens back to the 1930's. We met 2 riders in Ft. Morgan on a day trip who reported that the beach where they were staying was littered with tar balls. We took the ferry to Dauphin Island which appears rustic but has a laid back charm. After dropping our bags at the Dauphin Inn, we cycled to an Audubon bird sanctuary. During our hike, biting flies that some locals call dog flies, hastened our visit. We met 2 sisters ages 9 and 11 riding their bikes. They offered to go home, break open their piggy banks, and make a donation to CMN. We convinced them to save their money for college. We biked to a local Friday night seafood buffet for dinner. Pictures to follow as we are having trouble loading them. Bear with us.

SAND IN MY SHOES

2010-09-30T19:51:00.001-05:00

On Thursday 9/30, a rest day in Orange Beach, Alabama. We fixed a rear wheel flat on Ann's Surly Long Haul Trucker (affectionately known as Shirley) and caught up on journals/email. We also spent time on the beach watching several pods of dolphins swim by less than 100 yards from the shoreline. Ann swam out several times in an attempt to get closer to these remarkable creatures. It will be hard to leave the warm gulf water, beach, and the dolphins. At dinner this evening, our 80 year old waitress, Mama Dee was a wealth of information. She advised that at one time this area was thick with satsuma orange groves, a variety of mandarin orange. Sometime during the 1940's, a big freeze devastated the industry. Mama Dee also said tar balls from the BP oil fiasco made it to the beaches here and machinery combs the beaches at night to remove them. She is hopeful that no hurricane damage will occur this year to further exacerbate the problem. As visitors, we have seen no evidence of the devastating spill. We saw this worm fiddling sign a few days ago. who knows what worm fiddling is? How are the walkers doing? Are you having fun yet?

Albeit Temporary: Sweet Home ALABAMA

2010-09-30T15:37:00.005-05:00

On Wednesday 9/29, we elected to ignore the advise given by Adventure Cycling to not ride Hwy 90 from Milton to Pensacola during rush hour. But, we were excited about seeing the ocean again. The traffic, as forewarned, was constant, fast, & furious. The 3 foot shoulder at least provided an illusion of security as we pedaled hard to reach quieter streets in Pensacola. Wow, it was a very stressful couple of hours. Lots of great scenery but it was tough to look around because we had to concentrate on holding our line and not wavering. As you climb up over those causeways with a load, that can be a challenge. Once we survived the experience, we were ready for coffee & a treat. We wandered around a much quieter downtown and happened upon Seville Square: a former group of tobacco warehouses now lovingly transformed into bars and restaurants reminiscent of New Orleans. We have a strong cup of coffee and beignets. Scenic Hwy 90 took us to 292 which became 182 as we entered Alabama. White powdered sand dunes became our roadside scenery with the blue waters of the gulf as a backdrop. Squadrons of huge dragonflies hovered above us. Ann had a surreal visit from a doppleganger who escorted us to our motel where the ride ended for the day. We hit the warm gulf water immediately with brown pelicans, gulls, and flying fish all around us. Tomorrow we rest.

Blue Skies Smiling At Me

2010-09-30T08:06:00.009-05:00

After our delayed rain start yesterday, we had nothing but blue skies on Tuesday 9/28. We lingered over breakfast in Defuniak with a couple riding from Austin Tx to Jacksonville. It was fun sharing information with Paul and Barbara from Sacramento who are very experienced bicycle tourists. We also stopped at the post office before leaving town to divest ourselves of 9 pounds of "stuff" that we mailed home. We needed to lighten up! On the road, an SUV pulled alongside Norb. The driver shouted "Guten Morgan". Norb replied, "Guten Tag". The driver than began a rapid fire conversation in German while driving next to Norb. Norb could at least understand that the driver was asking where we were headed and replied, "San Diego". The driver became animated, pumping his fists, laughing, and shouting some kind of encouragement in German. Norb began wondering how this stranger could possibly know he was born in Germany. An "aha" moment happened: our CMN jerseys are black, gold, and red like the German flag. The driver assumed we were from Deutschland. A stop in historic Crestview for gumbo at Uncorked Bistro. I can share the recipe for anyone interested. It was the best ever and they were nice to share. While navagating a series of backwater swamp roads, bordered by beauty berries and hummingbird vine, we saw a sign "Bridge Is Out". A detour would have required biking on a road packed with red dirt and sand. Just the kind of grit we didn't want in our deraileur or the links of our chains. We took a chance and continued for the bridge. We came upon an enormous crane that spanned the width of the bridge and was surrounded by a work crew. The crew was gracious in allowing us to squeeze by. We rode 9 miles on The Blackwater Trail while mocking birds serenaded us from dense thickets of Sea and Wax Myrtle. We arrived in Milton, our last overnight in Florida, after a good and varied 65 mile ride.

IT'S A HEARTBREAK TO LEAVE THIS HOTEL

2010-09-29T20:59:00.011-05:00

On Monday 9/27, we woke early to pouring rain and lingered at the motel until 10am before starting out in a light drizzle. This segment of U.S. Highway 90 has smooth pavement and clean shoulders that carry us west. We saw stands of birch trees with appaloosa marked bark mixed with the typical Florida roadside vegetation. Tall stands of goldenrod and purple primrose-like blossoms added color to our journey. We encountered no angry dogs but did pass a pack of 5 chihuahuas that paid little attention to our passing through their territory. It is doubtful the 5 of them could have taken down a grasshopper. We arrived in DeFuniak Springs at 2pm and registered at Hotel DeFuniak. This hotel was built in 1920 as a Masonic Lodge and is a beautifully restored gem. It is a comfortable, bike-friendly, and elegant establishment that is also reasonably priced. The DeFuniak area was first occupied by Muscogee/Creek/Euchee Indians. In the 1880's a railroad surveying party rested near a round lake in the heart of a virgin forest. They were so overwhelmed by the beauty, it was decided there would be a town built at that location. The town was named in honor of Fred DeFuniak who had held many high positions in the Louisville & Nashville Railroad. One legend has it that Fredrick won the right to name the town in a card game. We walked the Lake Circle. The spring-fed lake is reportedly one of two in the world that is almost perfectly round, the other being in Zurich, Switzerland. It is nearly one mile in circumference, 60 feet deep, and at 250 feet, one of the highest points in Florida. In this town of 5200 there are over 200 homes on the National Historic Registry that conjure images of an elegant past. The town's history is also immersed with the Chautauqua by becoming its winter home in 1885. Chautauqua, originally founded in New York strived to provide a combined experience of religion, education, the arts, and recreation. According to our Adventure Cycling maps we have ridden 428 miles. However, they do not take into account the additional miles it takes to find a place to eat/sleep. So our actual miles in the saddle are 447. Norb has an acronym for that: ASAM (Actual Saddle Ass Miles) DeFuniak Springs is also cause for a minor celebration for these 2 riders as it is completion of the first of seven maps that chart our course across the country. Yeah! As a reminder to all - all donations to the Miracle Ride go directly to help kids as we finance our own travel expenses.

We Made It Through The Rain

2010-09-27T20:38:00.005-05:00

We leave Chattahoochee on Highway 90 West and enjoy a long drop to the Apalachicola River. As we cross the bridge, a sign informs us that we are entering the central time zone. The skies to the north and south have banks of threatening clouds but we travel west beneath a sliver of blue sky. The forecast is rain so we anticipate getting wet at some point during the ride. The roadside vegetation is a mix of oaks, pines, cedars, and holly trees. The multiple shades of green are a pretty landscape for cycling. We encounter a very hilly 10 mile stretch on CR164 east of Marianna with no shoulders and drivers apparently training for the autobahn. Marianna (population 6,230) was the site of a bloody Civil War battle 146 years ago, almost to the day, we rode through this lovely town. On September 26, 1864, Union troops attacked this town. This was the deepest penetration south by Union troops during the War Between the States. Marianna was defended by volunteers and wounded Confederate soldiers who were greatly outnumbered. Although Union troops were victorious, the victory was not without heavy Union casualties. This battle is often called "Florida's Alamo". Ten miles from Chipley the rain catches us. Two big dogs also tried to catch us. A sheriff patrol car in the oncoming lane swerved over to position his car between Ann and the mutts. The dogs retreated. Talk about public service from law enforcement. What a deal! Although we arrived looking like drowned rats, the hotel had some nice rags with which to dry & polish our hot machines. Norb even scrubbed the less than pleasant looking scum from the insides of my sports drink bottle. What a guy!

CHATTAHOOCHE

2010-09-26T18:30:00.005-05:00

During breakfast at Jacob's Cafe in Tallahassee, the wait staff pooled some money together and made a donation to CMN. When people dip into their tip money, you know they have big hearts. It was an emotional moment for us. We cycled the quiet morning streets through the FSU campus where police were already stationed at barricades to control the inevitable traffic that today's football game against Wake Forest will bring. The stadium was very impressive and hearing the marching band practicing made us think twice about sticking around another day. After forging on, we biked mainly rolling hills on an overcast and muggy day. We stopped at Quincy Golf Club to mooch water and met Jim Folds who made a donation to CMN. On the outskirts of Chattahooche the hills got serious as we passed through an area called "Happy Town". This was and, seemingly still is, an African/American community. As we biked past the Happy Town store, a group of happy locals whooped, hollered, and waved. We checked into the Relax Inn, our sole choice in this small town positioned high above the Apalachicola River. A light rain became a downpour and the entire town was without electricity for about 2 hours. The community has a large state mental health hospital which, no doubt, is an anchor for the local economy. We discovered a song by .38 Special that seemed appropriate . Can't say this song was previously in our repertoire.

In Chattahoochee I'm not crazy. Chattachoocee I'm just lazy.
Chattahoochee found my home, Chattachoocee.
Who's to say who's crazy. It's easy to see.
All you gotta do is turn on your T.V.
All the people on the outside trying to be someone else.
I'm having fun here just being myself.

Downtown GET DOWN

2010-09-25T19:38:00.007-05:00

It felt luxurious to spend the day off-bike and enjoying Tallahassee. We were pleasantly surprised by the cosmopolitan feel and the wonderful job they seem to be doing preserving and highlighting their history. Touring the historical state capital was informative and fascinating. We had lunch with a great crew at the Metro Deli. Since we had to keep our muscles loose, Ann took Norb in a few games of ping pong. The highlight of the day was having the opportunity to enjoy the event set up right outside our hotel, Downtown GET DOWN. The city puts on this happening the Friday night before every home football game at FSU. Food, music, and a variety of vendors line the blocked-off street. We had the extra treat of attending the event with our new friends Brenda & Karen. Oh, did I mention our glitter tattoos?

My Tallahassee Lassie Down in F-L-A

2010-09-24T08:30:00.005-05:00

Yes the Beach Boys sang about this Florida capital city. Time to hit the road from Grace Manor but not until Brenda has served us a killer quiche. (yes, Norb is a real man, just check out those biker legs) It is a nice break from our motel continentals. We decide to deviate from our circuitous backroads route and take Hwy 90 directly to Tallahassee. We know from past experience that going off- route from the recommendation of Adventure Cycling Assn. is always a gamble as the road may look reasonable on the map, but not good for cycling. Our alternate plan worked great for about 20 miles when we lost our narrow shoulder and encountered lots of road construction. Ten additional miles of Greyhound buses and tractor trailers inching past us provided motivation to pull over and check the map. We found a much quieter way through the suburbs with trees shading the pavement & arrived at our destination about 2pm. Several people had advised us that the terrain becomes hillier on this stretch and they obviously knew what they were talking about. This city is arranged like a wheel on a variety of steep hills. This is home to Florida State University and Florida A & M University . FAMU, established in 1887, is the oldest historically black public university in Florida. In October the annual migration of Monarch butterflies pass through the nearby St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, roosting by the thousands before their trip across the gulf to Mexico. Perhaps we can see a few scouts. Saturday is a rest day after 6 days of riding and 307 miles, (but who's counting) so we will visit the bike shop for a minor adjustment, relax, and consider some local sightseeing options. Our hotel is within walking distance of the Capital Building and several historic points of interest. Thanks to all for your interest & support of us and CMN!

When The Rooster Crows At The Break of Dawn, Look Out Your Window and I'll Be Gone

2010-09-23T19:21:00.008-05:00

We leave White Springs in an early morning fog. The sun is rising behind us like a "Red Rubber Ball" (go on, sing it) We cycle past tall stands of pine trees that filter the sunlight, creating bright spots on the forest floor. We ride through the streets of Madison Fl that are lined with historic homes and buildings. We spoke with a man who was rehabing a neat old boarding house. He stated that when "cotton was king" the Florida Legislature was controlled by representatives who were rural plantation owners. They made certain small rural towns, such as Madison, received ample funding to construct beautiful buildings such as the Madison Co. Courthouse. West of Madison we cycle through the Hixtown Swamp. Although we don't spy any gators, we hear the calls of pileated woodpeckers. Ann manages to spot 3 of these magnificent birds. We also pass an area covered with water lilies and trees full of snowy egrets. Hwy 90 takes us to Greenville, pop. 839. We arrive at Grace Manor B & B. It was constructed in 1898 as a grand hotel and later used as a boarding house until 1954. During Greenville's boom era, the town claimed to be the Plywood Capital of the World. Greenville is also the childhood home of R.C. Robinson, better known as Ray Charles. Brenda Graham, owner, prepared a home cooked dinner for us, yummmm. Brenda is a great hostess and we enjoyed singing oldies and visiting on the incredible wraparound porch.

White Springs, Florida

2010-09-21T18:35:00.008-05:00

Tonight we are in White Springs Florida and have ridden 205 miles since our start on Saturday. Last night we were in High Springs. Are you getting a theme here? This area is saturated with springs and caves. Cave diving is quite the sport. Eight billion gallons of water flow daily from springs in northern Florida. The air temperature continues to be in the 90's by midday so yesterday we visited Poe Spring Park for a refreshing dip in the spring that feeds the Santa Fe River that flows into the Suwanee River. that then empties into the Atlantic Ocean. In High Springs, we met Sharon Tugman who is living her dream of operating a bakery, The Secret Garden. She provided us not only with complimentary goodies but also made a contribution to CMN. Her son even tried to help me with a few computer glitches. Thank you both! A local legend, Naked Ed, had pearls of wisdom posted in the Great Outdoors Restaurant (terrific place) One such pearl - "It is nice to be important, but more important to be nice." After arriving in White Springs, we dropped our bags at the motel and rode to the historic Telford Hotel for a buffet meal of great southern cooking. Stephen Foster is the composer of "Way Down Upon the Suwanee River" Even though he never visited Florida, they have a park and museum honoring him here on the banks of that immortalized river. On the way back to the hotel, we were caught in a sudden thunderstorm which actually felt refreshing since the temp had reached 97.

On The Road Again

2010-09-18T18:28:00.006-05:00

A great send-off in St Augustine! Friday night my nephew's in-laws were nice enough to drive down from Jacksonville and take us to dinner at Saltwater Cowboy, a unique place in the marshes where we could watch the sun set while enjoying some good food and even better company. Thanks Andy & Joanne! We decided to get an early start for our first ride in order to avoid the hottest part of the day. This has been a hotter than usual season in Florida. We had a great group of employees at our hotel in St Augustine: friendly, informative, encouraging, and they helped us get a great start. Thanks Sheri & Lydia! We biked through the historic district at daybreak. The usually bustling streets were quiet as we slipped past beautiful old buildings with so much history that it was easy to imagine seeing the ghosts of Spanish Conquistidors on horses pouring out of the narrow streets. As King Avenue became CR214, the sense of transitioning to a more rural enviornment was striking. It is a testament to the reality that Lyndon Johnson's dream of a greater society has yet to materialize. The air was calm, the roads flat and smooth with virtually no traffic. We saw flocks of white egrets feeding in fields, and swooping like white clouds to touch down on the ground. We pedaled along the St. John's River with water views and beneath old live oaks draped with Spanish moss. We rode through Hastings, the potato capital of Florida and on to Palatka for an overnight. We walked over the mile long bridge to stretch our legs and had a great early seafood dinner.

Anchors (Bicycles) Away

2010-09-17T17:00:00.006-05:00

The joys of technology. We wanted to post a blog today as tomorrow we start our ride and our energy level may be affected by a heavy load and an effort to get a routine of sorts established. Today we drove from daughter Sylena's home on St Simon Island GA. While in SSI, we took a trolley tour. The island is beautiful and rich with history, such as the story of a slave named Neptune Small. Neptune served as an orderly to Captain Page in the Confederate Army. Neptune and Page grew up together as children on the Page family plantation. Capt. Page was killed during a battle in Virginia. Neptune carried his body back to St Simons Island on a cart that he pushed and pulled for 1000 miles. The Page family gave Neptune his freedom and a huge parcel of oceanfront land that today serves as a community park. Above are scenes of St Simons

Sites Of Our Departure City

2010-09-15T20:42:00.008-05:00

St. Augustine is a fun place to "gear up". Thought we would share a few shots with you.

Let the Sunshine In

2010-09-13T16:38:00.004-05:00

Yes, the Bagleys have managed to drive to Florida with bikes and bags. It is 92 degrees in St Augustine and we were sweating like crazy just unloading all the stuff from the car. Guess we better acclimate, huh? Tonight we will explore around St. Augustine, the oldest city in the U.S. founded in 1565. The Fountain of Youth is just down the street so chances are you will not recognize any of our blog pictures or us in person when we return. Tomorrow we drive north to St. Simon's Island Georgia to visit our daughter Sylena for a few days and deliver the car to her that made it possible to get here. The Subaru Impreza has served us well and as we turn it over to her, our official mode of transportation will become "bicycles". She will bring us back to St Augustine and depending on weather, we will start riding at the end of this week. Norb just killed a spider on the bed in our musty St Sebastian River-side room. Let the adventure begin.

Countdown

2010-09-06T08:21:00.004-05:00

Wow, one week until we head to Florida. We have done the final adjustments on the bikes and now just have to manage to get all this stuff into these bags. The idea of weighing them is somewhat of a scary proposition. I am experiencing a combination of excitement mixed with a little trepidation. I think it will probably be that way until we head out of St Augustine. Kudos to Sunshine Bike Shop who has been generous and helpful in assisting us to prepare us for this challenge. Gotta run, I just thought of two more things to throw on the pile.

"Takin' Care of Business"

2010-08-19T11:55:00.005-05:00

It's crunch time to get out letters & emails for the cause. We feel, at times, like we are drowning in paperwork but once we hit the long road, that will be behind us. Then it will just be trying to master the technology that will keep us connected to you, this site, and the great big wonderful world out there. Now our focus is on GEAR: bikes, bags, stuff, stuff & more stuff. The bags have been sprayed with waterproofing and piles to put in them are starting to build up. We have some pre Miracle Ride celebrating to do as we both will be turning another year older before we head out: but, NO decade changes this year. Thanks to all for your support!

Miracle Ride

2010-08-03T21:37:00.004-05:00

Six weeks to ride time. We have a" Ticket to Ride " beginning Monday Sept. 20th starting in St. Augustine, Florida. Our training and departure schedule were interrupted by a pesky pinched nerve in Norb's neck. [ the result of a bone spur ] Thanks to Doctors Hugh Harris and Charlie Mace for their consults and Dr. Rusty Bond for his outstanding care , the situation is improving. Kudos to the staff at the Martin Center who found the culprit with an MRI, and Cox Home Support for the rental of a home cervical traction unit.[although the stretching is not making Norb any taller--yet.] Thanks also to Josh at Sunshine Cycles who tweaked Norb's bike so he can ride in a more upright position [Peewee Herman style] to reduce neck/shoulder stress. Sometimes it does take a village to get you through some tough times. Heather Zoromski and staff at CMN have been working hard to help us get organized for what this ride is really all about. To raise money for CMN so kids can receive financial assistance for needed medical care. So --- strap on those pedometers you fantastic Cox walkers and join us for this 3100 mile adventure to SanDiego, California. For everyone else---- make a donation to CMN--- it will make you feel good about yourself. Norb & Ann

Let's Get Organized!

2010-06-15T15:19:00.006-05:00

Oh boy, our first new posting to our very first blogspot. We had a great photo shoot with some of the Miracle Kids and that picture appears on our donation letter. What an inspiring group to ride for. An exact departure date from St. Augustine, Florida is still being considered as we work through logistics of getting us and our bikes to the starting point. Anyone headed to Florida in late August? We'll buy the gas. We are in the process of:

making lists and more lists
gathering equipment
getting reacquainted with Shirley (Ann's Surly Long Haul Trucker touring bike) and Serotta (Norb's trusty cycle)
trying to improve our skills with blogspots and laptops
watering/feeding tomatoes and hoping for some ripe ones before we depart
reviewing, studying, and marking maps
preparing ourselves for separation anxiety from our dog, Zenee
sending out letters about the upcoming ride-stay tune

The Bagleys' 2008 ride: a look back

2010-03-23T17:25:00.006-05:00

Norb and Ann Bagley are preparing for their “Miracle Ride” across the United States this fall, but it isn’t the first time they’ve traversed the nation to benefit CMN. Below is the piece that appeared in CoxHealth Connection after their first ride in 2008. Will their second trip generate as many friends and adventures as their last? We’re betting so:

When most people think of a bike ride, they’re picturing an afternoon trip along a Greenways trail. And when they think of charity, they’re imagining a payroll deduction for a cause.

Former Chief Operating Officer Norb Bagley and his wife, Ann, tend to think on a larger scale.

Both longtime cyclists, Norb and Ann had always wanted to put their athletic skills to the test by riding across the United States. This spring, they decided to make the journey and help others at the same time by raising money for Children‘s Miracle Network.

After sending out a fundraising notice to their friends and family, the couple headed for their starting point, Anacortes, Wash., in May. Over the next three months, the Bagleys rode across the northern tier of the United States. Along the way, they raised funds and awareness, tested their athletic stamina and got to see America the way few people ever will: one mile at a time.

“Seeing new things every day, it’s a real treat as far as I’m concerned,” Ann says.

The ride

When Connection first spoke with Norb and Ann in mid-July, they were near Palmyra, N.Y., where they were riding along the path next to the Erie Canal. It was day 71: 3,282 miles down, 565 to go.

“It’s been a great experience and we’ve absolutely enjoyed it,” Norb says. “There’s a tremendous feeling of freedom out on a bike.”

The Bagleys’ had been riding on a loose schedule of six days on the road followed by one day of rest. They covered anywhere from 50-100 miles each day.

The weather was a constant, and sometimes unwelcome, companion: A spate of tornadoes had cut one day short to 25 miles and winds in North Dakota had them making a 75-mile ride with 25-30 mph headwinds.

Norb says they were pleasantly surprised to find out that they are better mechanics than they expected. Along the trek, their roadside repairs included replacing flat tires and one broken chain.

They were also surprised to learn that riding six days a week means you can eat vast quantities of almost anything.

“Some days it feels like you can’t get enough to eat,” Norb says. “We’re eating foods we never eat – fries, chips, grilled cheese. If it’s high in calories, we’re wolfing it down.”

This phenomenon made the Continental breakfast at hotels a fantastic deal. Norb recalls one meal of cereal, waffles, bagels, pancakes and English muffins that drew the stares of a couple at the next table.

Ann says the extra attention is all part of the territory when you’re on a nationwide trip.

“Certain people look at you with a question in their eyes,” Ann says, adding, with a laugh: “Some people stop you and ask about the trip, and some just look.”

The people

Along the way, the people who did stop and ask became fast friends of the Bagleys. Norb says if they had chatted at length with everyone who was kind enough to offer a word of encouragement, “we’d still be in Montana.”

“Everywhere we went, we’ve seen the kindness and wonderful spirit of people,” Ann says.

Norb and Ann recall Bernice and Larry, a couple who were working on their Michigan farm when the Bagleys rode by. They stopped to talk and what followed was typical of the hospitality they experienced throughout the trip.

“We wound up in their house visiting for two hours,” Norb says. “We have met so many just super, super people.”

They also met plenty of people who wanted to support the cause.

“A guy in a bar in Wisconsin gave us $10 for CMN,” Norb says. “He told us he had some experience biking when his license was revoked.”

Norb says spending three months on the road is a pleasant mental break from the daily routine. At home, he’d watch cable news and soak up the news about the latest scandals in the political, business and entertainment worlds.

“You can develop the idea that things are going to hell in a handbasket,” he says. “But when you get away from all of it, you find people aren’t like that. There are a lot of great people out there.

“And the diversity of the people we met, this is a real melting pot,” Norb says. “We met people from Pakistan, India, Germany, Scotland – they’ve all come here for an opportunity to make a better life for themselves and their families.”

The fundraising

While the Bagleys were on the road, back in Springfield their efforts were helping make things better for families aided by CMN.

As the months rolled by, donations came in – envelopes from Michigan and Washington state and the occasional cash donation in Canadian dollars.

Heather Fesperman, director of CMN kept everyone at Cox in touch by distributing regular updates with the latest notes faxed in by Ann and Norb.

“I’ve had employees tell me they’ve started riding bikes or they’ve started walking because of Norb and Ann,” she says. “It’s been really great, I think they’ve inspired the hospital.”

Several employees in the Wellness program formed walking teams and walked the same distance Norb and Ann rode. By the end, they had raised $1,700 for the cause.

In all, the trip raised $15,000 for CMN, far beyond the $10,000 goal Norb and Ann had set.

The return

Near the end of the ride, the Bagleys encountered days of rain in Vermont. They had originally planned to finish in Maine, but a soggy forecast inspired them to finish in Massachusetts. Their last few miles were spent in downtown Boston during rush hour.

The pair rode to the ocean, dipped their tires in and then headed for the train station, where the bikes would be boxed for the two-day journey to Missouri.

“There were some real mixed feelings when we boxed the bikes up,” Norb says. “When we went back to the hotel, not having the bikes in the room seemed really strange.”

Back in Springfield, the Bagleys adjusted to waking up at home instead of in a hotel. Norb says it’s been hard to get out of the habit of waking up, consulting a map and then wondering “does this place have Continental breakfast?”

They shared the experiences from their 3,847-mile journey at a CMN-hosted reception for employees, family and friends.

“We were awed by the lakes, rivers, forests and farms. This was a great way to experience it,” Norb says. “We owe a big thank you to our friends and family at Cox who followed along and made contributions to CMN.”

Fesperman says the Bagleys’ efforts are key to providing hope for children and their families.

“A lot of our kids can’t ride a bike, but, as Norb said to me, maybe we can get them better so they can someday,” Fesperman says. “To see these two people who have gone to these great lengths for our kids is really inspiring. Hopefully it will encourage more people to get involved and do something.”